I’ve been using drywall spackling to seal my blanks for years. Does anyone if drywall “joint compound” works as well? Thanks!
Sand a little neater and then dont use anything.
STronger board… Better bond… less chance of delam… No chance of mold… no soup when you get a ding… No extra steps.
No to the drywall joint compound. It won’t do anything but add weight.
Really? So just stick to the drywall spackle?
Spackle is a crutch
If you really want to do it right, http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/cerex-nylon-66-n-fusion-surfacing-veils-titanium-oxide-white-under-vacuum-bag
Vacuum bag Cerex N-Fusion onto the blank. Everybody’s favorite board maker has been doing this, then laminating with polyester resin over it for years now.
If you have a way to finish sand 1lb eps so it doesnt drink massive amounts of epoxy please share.
Wavestorm?
Which boardmaker has the most fans on Swaylock’s and the ER BB forum?
Good question. I don’t go to ER BB ever. Don’t know who the favorite board maker is either, but I kinda think I know who you are talking about.
Don’t see any value for the non bagging people trying to learn that process just to lam with poly. Spackle, then sand it down smooth, then lam. Guys I know who were doing EPS a long time ago did it this way to help keep the board from soaking up resin. Spackling is a simple process.
Sharkcountry, you are right.
If you aren’t bagging, stay away from the Cerex. For spackle, I like epoxy/ microbaloons, but many do the Fast and Final with great success.
How about drywall joint compound can I use it? I live in the Philippines during the winter and it’s impossible to find drywall spackle. However, drywall joint compound is EVERYWHERE!
Why not just try some on a small piece of foam and glass it? I think it was Herb Spitzer on here some time back saying that he used it with success, but I’d rather you heard it from him than third hand from me, 'cuz I don’t want to misrepresent what he said. Seems like it would work. I’ve used q-cell and Kilz primer and that board is still together 7-8 years later, so maybe you can get hold of some of that stuff.
You want use a light weight product. I bought some spackle for some i eas doing and it was really heavy.
Thanks for all info guys I appreciate it. One more question. Isn’t spackle just drywall/plasterboard ground up into a powder?
Try it. Let us know how it works out. Lite-weight spackle is not a powder. I use Dap Fast-n-Final and they turn out great. I would think that Joint Compound would turn your blank brown or yellow becase of the mineral content in the compound and the water used in its manufacture. Thin the spackle out with distilled water or acrylic sealer. Spread it with a plastic squeege. If you do it this way you will not have to use a sander on it after it dries. You can clean it up with sanding screen and a foam pad. The stringer will clean up no problem this way. If spackle is a crutch then I’m in good company as this is the method Stretch uses. Epoxy slurries are more work. Sander etc. and the stringer doesn’t always clean up like it should. Some shops paint on a seal coat of Epoxy the night before and glass right over it the next day. No sanding.
No
An home made kind of spackle can be do by mixing microspheres and cabosil in acrylic paint up to a mayo slurry. If you don’t want to paint on blank and your blank is porous, squegge a layer of thicken epoxy cabosil then lay fiber on it and lam : no more resin drink in blank good adhesion all in one step. Oldschool wind shaper tech.
Micro balloons or qcell with epoxy, mask around the perimeter, slurry it on, squeegee it off, flip, repeat, laminate. Do it neat, no trimming or sanding, and for 15 minutes effort it’s well worth it.