hi there i’m new to swaylocks so be kind to me.
i’ve painted a few of the blanks that i’m working on and had problems with chrystalisation and bleeding.
is there anything out there that i can use to stop this.i didnt want to use acrilic clear laquer because of adhesion with the resin and blank…i hear talk of a floor sealer that you can use as the thinning agent instead of water to thin and seal the paint …
if there is any other method that i can do to help stop this…
thanks .
I can’t give you a straight answer, because you have to find what works with the paint / resin you’re using. But I have used a water based polycrylic floor sealer to seal paint, without any issues from the epoxy resin I used to glass. In my current avatar you will see a deck emblem painted in artist’s acrylic paint directly on the foam, and glassed over with Resin Research epoxy, no sealer of any kind, no runs, no problems. Find what works for you, trial runs are always a good idea.
I’m using poly resin and the paint we use is water based acrilic that we leave in our conservatory for at least 2 days so we know the paint is fully dry…we have glassed with about 70% going well…the problem is that we’ve done 2 boards the same way and 1 went fine yet the other not so.
I think swaylocks member reverb does a lot of this kind of work, if u don’t get a better answer, you might try contacting him by pm
Crystalization can be stopped by adding a bit of calcium carbonate to the mix before spraying. I use high quality acrylics and for my reds and I always add calcium. Learned this from one of the best in the biz. With PU construction, you can seal your work with acrylic if you want. The floor sealer (Futures Floor) is just clear acrylic and a couple of other chemicals that don’t affect the paint or glass. Lots of guys here on the west coast use it as it is cheaper than artist clear. It also works just like artist clear acrylic on paint & pen work done on sanded finishes. Bleeding can often be an issue with application, such as too much paint at one time, or poor quality tape. I do limited color sprays (not a artist, just a shaper, I job out the artsy stuff) and have found that good quality materials & good technique eliminate most of these issues. PU is still plenty porous and if your glasser is working in the resin, bonding is not a problem. More often the sanding of the bottom laps and not blowing off the board between lams is more of an issue with paint flecks moving around. Just my 2c…
What brand of paint are you using? And what colors are getting messed up?
Usually cheap paint, heavy spray jobs or reds seem to be a problem with the crystallization, at least in my experience.
How are you applying the paint?
Huck, love the avatar.
Carmen Miranda?
Usually the cristalization is a lack of resin.
Mostly appears on the vertical surfaces.
A little extra resin usually helps.
I work with a lot of laminators.
One used to tell me my paint all cristalizes.
I told him if that were true, why does it not do it everywhere?
It seems to do it on the rails at the nose and tail.
I simply put some catylized resin on my finger and rubbed it in the lamination. Problem solved. All gone.
If you catch it soon enough, it can be fixed.
Sometimes you can fix it with a little styrene mixed in the next day. (thinned out).
thanks a lot for your help
Thanks Barry, yep, its Carmen. She had something special.
Use less paint. If still a problem apply a cheater coat of lam resin before laminating. If you don’t have any luck with that switch to acrylic car paint. Avoid dark colours. You are better building colour up in thin layers. If you don’t have any joy with any of these I’d switch to clear lama and hotcoat sprays or start trying tints and pigments Cheers rich