secret surf spots

Share some of your favorite surf spots (dont tell where it is) and tell why they are your favorite. thanks

-Life is always better inside the tube-

if i tole you whar they is, wudn't be a secrut spot no more.

 

Super secret spot:

Secret

Mile hike just to check it.

Add a half mile hike down a wet trail.

Don’t worry, there is a rope in spots to hang on to.

High tide only.

Never more than two out.

Cold, fickle and very sharky.

And the sea lions are kind of pricks too.

Top to bottom at take off followed by boils and cross current.

Only works at 6’ plus, high tide and a North wind.

Late last summer, smelled a whale burp.

Nasty.

But its the kind of spot that will earn you lots of respect.

Or whack you but quick.

No one surfs it alone.

No

hehe, it’s only about 10 1/2 hours flight time from my current location… it’s located just about a mile or two from a well known break from the early longboard days of surfing… some dude lost his foot there to a shark a few years ago… it ain’t epic or massive or really hollow, but I dig it… locals call it “the cemetary” and there is a small section just back a bit from the main area named after some dudes left testicle (I think because the guy is a “nut” and the wave sometimes forms nice lefts)

 

Locally, where I live, there are no secret spots, never have been never will be.

 

 

 

 

 

My secret spot only works when my home spot is super choppy because to much onshore wind, or when the current is way to strong.

 

This picture is me on my secret spot (only picture I have from it). This was not a very good day, it was onshore on this spot, we came here because the current was insane at our home spot, but the waves were better at the home spot. The secret spot can be really nice and clean when it’s offshore, but it never becomes really big. We keep it sectret because the parkinglot only has 8 places!

 

The picture below is my homebreak on a very good day, few weeks ago.

 

 

When we see people coming out of the water depressed. Then we get in our car and try to look depressed too. Mostly we have a fun session at our secret when everybody is being mad about the unsurfable conditions.

The only secret spot in San Diego is Pickle Weed point....Resinhead surfs there....It only breaks when the wind is onshore. 30 mph + or forget it. The tide must be a dropping ebb tide with a little rip tide mix. The swell needs to be an East /north/south combo. I surf there often.....I'll meet you there Friday morning around 9......The tide should be perfect....

ANy more interesting stories?? Thanks to those people who posted

-Life is always better in the tube-

Here's the break in front of the Island my brother and his friend's own. Pretty cool to have your own secrete spot. I think?

"Secret Spot" ? LOL  My Ass!  If no one surfs it alone;  It's not a friggin' secret.  The only "Secret Spot" I can think of is the one that consistently  made the cover of "Longboard Magazine" about four times a year.  Generally referred to by the Editor and photog Bob Barbour as "Monterey Bay".  Nice camera angle by Bob.  Just a skoch to the right and it wouldn't be a "secret".

IMG_6139

not too many people are aware of that left…

Here's mine.  

 

 

 

 

still a secret.....

Mike

 

Im not telling.  Thats what makes it a secret.

Our fav secret surf spot

yours and mine…

has a temple on either side,

you drop in nose first

tail dragging or planing behind

on good days you pick

the guys to surf with

when you dont feel iike it 

nobody goes out with you

you ride your choice of board

no stoopid lower  life forms

no snotty ''hotter than

the average bear’’ yogis

never get a ding

hey you got a minute?

for a wave off the point

I wont let anyone drop in on you

go man your wave…

Ill watch you disappear

from the back

and watch you pull in

on the inside section

and hoot loud and long …

I’ll take the nex one…

…ambrose…

merry christmas

no pro can go

they are busy

 

 

 

wait I see you are already out

and the parking spots are all empty…

I really like this spot.

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surfing in my mind

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250# kid from regina canada

helped him catch his first eight waves

at the sands this xmas eve day

swam/taught

till the spear fisin’ guys swam by

left the building small and offshore and glassy.

ask for more?

 

 

Here’s a pic from my local  not so secret spot,the secret spot up the road was better and just as crowded.I scored countless overhead walls alone,2 other surfers out but we were always about 100 yards from each other.

 

Christmas surf…

I   Howzit Huckleberry, It's sure no secret to the portapotty pumper. Aloha,Kokua