secret surf spots

Manguante Bay

http://www.balsabill.com/images/ManguanteBaySurf/MANGUANTETOPTURN.jpg

http://www.balsabill.com/images/ManguanteBaySurf/MANGUANTETRIMadjusted.jpg

It's definitely no secret, and it does get crowded, but its usually less crowded than the more popular spot to the north and south, and its my favorite spot.  Had a fun day there today.







we have ways of making squirrels 

talk yet the real hard thing is to get 

them to spell squirrel correctly.

 

is that rock named john

or mary?    there is a spot 

on my shirt where I spilled some 

chocolate malted on new years eve.

cool shots…I remember climbing over some rocks in 1965

south of rincon … somebody called it rincon 4

 

…ambrose…

 

is it still a secret?

thank god for secrets …

surfed my secret eve before last

half hour three waves paddled 1/2-3/4 mile

and rode about the same distance

connecting vorticies mostly straight off to right angling

invisible to the resturant inside on the beach for 36 years…

my friend jesse the chef sometimes monitors my water  work

 

oh yeaah surfed by  myself in the coming dusk

 

can you feel the danger?

woopsie

My brother bailed on So Cal several years ago and now resides in Port Orford Oregon. There's no shortage of surf or surfers up there but it's often out of control and  many of the the good spots are fickle. On the way back towards home from our last trip, as we were passing over the Rouge River coast highway bridge at Gold Beach, I noticed a perfect and empty waist high zipper, peeling along the north shore of the river inside the breakwall. The macking swell outside was hitting the southern seawall just right and reflecting back across the very calm rivermouth to break sweetly on a small sand point across the river.  

When we got home I called my bro' and asked him about it and why it was going unridden on such a nice day for it....

He chuckled and said "yeah, it's a really nice wave but it's also a well known hangout for a couple of large white sharks...........  

You can see the sand spit where the wave was breaking on the right side of the pic.. 

Go for it!

Sweet posts keep em coming

-Life is always better in the tube-

ha! UncleGrumpy, i think i've seen that same wave.

i wondered the same thing about it.

local "secret"

 

Last few years have not been good for this secret… reached a new high point this weekend as have the other spots here.  Used to be 5 cars was a crowd.  Counted 18 people in the lineup a different ‘secret’ spot I have never surfed with more than 4 other locals… oh well, we’re all part of the crowd.  SAVE N@&!#$ hahaha

Im lucky enough not to need a secret spot, thankfully!

 

F*^%'n stus!!

you said it man! phrase of the week for me