Security suggestions

General Discussion
1

My workshop was burglarized this morning.  Lost about $2000 worth of power tools.  Including my Rockwell 653, air compressor, 2 sanders, and polisher.  I think something spooked them and they split.  I was lucky that they did not go into my shaping room.  5 surfboards, 2 blanks, 2 Skils, and hand planes.

My workshop is powered by an extension cord from my 220 v water pump and shop is about 200 yards from my house…  I have a generator that provides electricity to shaping room (lights, AC, wall outlets).  The “perps” drove their vehicle through a fence to gain access to shop.  

I am looking for security suggestions for a detached workshop with minimal power supply.  What is the best way to secure entrance door?  The padlocked was cut off today.  I have no neighbors that can see my property and no internet access.  

2

Loud  alarms. Bright lights. DVR/Closed curcuit camera system. Post signs. DOGS. At least two entry points/gates at each ingress/egress. Entry points l that lead to choke points where they cannot leave as easily or turn around a vehicle. Trigger activated sound traps. And yes, GUNS. Not just owning a gun but proper use, storage and ownership. Proper ownership of weapons entails NO ONE but a perpetrator is in threat of your gun whether it is in your hand or safely locked up and stored. 

Workshop: Double cylinder dead bolt locks. Hidden lock release on doors. Windows: when not in use, board up windows with carriage bolts and 2x backing. Sash locks.

Thieves are generally lazy. If it takes too long to get in or makes too much noise, they will look for easier targets. Unfortuately, there are always easier targets.

3

A Rottweiler or two .

4

Guns may not be allowed, depending where you live, but the ultimate dog for protection purposes is the

Boerbull!

The main purpose of the boerbull is to protect his family. Guests and friends must be introduced to the dog, but he still will watch anybody, and take care…, thats what I read in an german article…

Excerpt from the breed standard:

PREAMBLE

Historically the Boerboel developed as a general farm dog for the pioneers who settled in South Africa since the seventeenth century. These dogs often were a first line of defence against predators and were valuable in tracking and holding down wounded game. Old farmers told many a tale of the strength, agility and courage of the Boerboel. The dangers and harsh conditions of southern Africa allowed only the fittest to survive.

The protective character of the Boerboel is today still evident and is much sought after, as is the calm, stable and confident composure of the breed. It remains the guarding breed of choice amongst current day farmers and is also very popular for the same reason in the urban communities.

The origin and purpose of the Boerboel should be understood in order to preserve the unique identity and qualities of the breed as a South African developed mastiff. Type, conformation, functional efficiency and mentality are equally important in the evaluation of the Boerboel as a whole. The aim with the Breed Standard is to provide clear guidelines for breeders and judges to promote a singular vision of the ideal Boerboel.

BREED STANDARD

1.    GENERAL APPEARANCE

The Boerboel

Is large, with a strong-boned structure and a well-developed musculature. The profile of the head and body appears blocky

Has an impressive demeanor created by the combination of conformation, carriage, confidence and powerful movement

Has powerful, buoyant and unencumbered movement, notwithstanding its size

Is symmetrical and perfectly balanced within the desired proportions for the breed

Has a distinct sexual dimorphism, with the bitch less prominently developed

2.    TEMPERAMENT AND CHARACTER

The Boerboel

Is intelligent, trainable and manageable

Has a strong protective instinct and is loyal to members of the family

Is steadfast and calm, with a balanced and confident nature when approached

Is fearless and shows courage when threatened

Requires training and firm handling from an early age

 

They weigh 70kg and more, and look like this:

 

https://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi2.wp.com%2Fwww.boerboelbraambos.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F05%2FAfrika-Lilah-02-02-11.44.52.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boerboelbraambos.com%2Fbreed%2Fbreeding-female%2F&docid=2DV9nrANX01L6M&tbnid=uhhvn093cEDrsM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwj5mcTk-pPcAhXBFCwKHa_IBHMQMwhYKBkwGQ..i&w=2094&h=1396&client=opera&bih=914&biw=1240&q=Boerboel%20south-africa%20breed%20standard&ved=0ahUKEwj5mcTk-pPcAhXBFCwKHa_IBHMQMwhYKBkwGQ&iact=mrc&uact=8

5

Sorry to hear.

If theives know you are not in the house, they’ll take as long as they want to get in if well hidden. Motion sensor lights and camera/s that record to hard-drive/storage device if you can’t use a mobile/cell (delete were applicable). There’s some well priced cameras now and some only record or send to phone when activated.

Steve

6

I’m a builder by trade. I have about $30k worth of tools. Protecting them is the bane of my existence. Insurance is about $1500 a year with $900 excess so there’s pretty much no point. Over the years I have been ripped off a few times and I have learned something from each time. 

Here are some basics:

1/ Never leave your tools in a vehicle.

2/ Keep your most expensive gear in a strong deadlocked cupboard inside your own house. Make sure your house has a monitored alarm.

3/ Take what you can carry home each day.

4/ If you have to leave tools on site don’t leave them all in the same place. Put some in the attic, under the floor etc. leave some crappy gear in an obvious place and hopefully they’ll take that and leave. On big jobs I build a strong room out of plywood. It is secured by a plywood panel screwed in place with about three different types of screws. I alarm this room.

In regards to your workshop, this is my advice:

1/ Forget about padlocks. They’re a waste of time. A thief will defeat one in about two seconds. I have deadlock and I also secure the door by means of a decent size hex head screw from a hidden location under the floor. Basically you need a decent impact driver with the correct size driver bit to get in. The impact driver makes a hell of a noise!

2/ Forget about security cameras. All you’ll get is some footage of some dudes in hooded tops and sunglasses taking your gear. Almost impossible to identify them, and even if you do and somehow they get caught, you’re not getting your gear back. They’ve already sold it. It’s long gone. If you really want to preotect yourself you need a monitored alarm. 

3/ Don’t have windows in your workshop. 

4/ Don’t advertise your workshop, ie don’t put a sign outside your house advertising your business. If you drove past my place you’d have no idea I’m running a construction business from my property. It’s all very low key. I don’t even sign-write my vehicle. My work is all word or mouth anyway so I don’t see the need to inform every thief who’s passing by that I have tools on the property. 

5/ I have a seperate workshop for making surfboards. I keep nothing of value down there. My sander, planer etc comeback up to the house with me when they’re not in use. I don’t keep boards down there, other than the one I’m working on. 

Looking after your gear as a builder is a serious business. Tools are like gold as far as criminals are concerned. They love stealing them as they’re so easy to sell. 

 

Hope this helps. 

7

Run power via buried PVC tubing, worth the effort.  Even if it is above ground most of the way, diving under when getting close to the shop so the run is unnoticed.

Hook up a motion detector to a ‘screamer’ with max decible that will go off at 10 yards - run the switch to it under the eaves of the back of the building or similar so you can switch it on/off from the outside.

For the entrace, build a heavy duty framed wire mesh security door with lag bolted internal hinges that are covered when closed, secured with a ‘BlockLock’ - various types on the market, basically padlock enclosures that prevent someone with a grinder from getting to the padlock.

And consider buying a job site box.  Remove any wheels, bolt it down to your floor.  If no floor, dig a couple of holes, cement in a couple lengths of running thread matching the holes in the bottom of the chest.  Put all your valuable hand tools in it each night before leaving, use hardned locks, grinder won’t get to them as they drop into recesses.  

Hate thieves, they’ve cost me more then once.  

8

A couple more suggestions. Years ago I had a short stint at Pepperdine University as a carpenter. This entailed lock work around the campus. They use many different makes and style of locking devices. They sent me to training seminars to be able to handle the job. Lockpicking, with the everyday locks is MUCH easier than you think. With “time” you can eventually work your way into most locks. Forget Masterlock or comperables. They are very easy to open with picks with two or three simple rakes.

And you can open them by fashioning a bypass out of a Coke can. If you are stuck with a padlock configuration, consider the ABLOY PL 330. Very difficult to pick and hardend steel It does not cut through quickly. If there is a hasp, look up the LoboJack HS 21 hasp safe. Another tricky lock not easily bypassed. Very hard steel as well. Both can be seen on Amazon.com. Abloy has a site:www.abloyusa.com.

9

Thanks tblank.  I either have to redesign entrance door or sticj with hasp/padlock configuration.  I will look into Abloy.  I have ordered a strobe/siren alarm with door/window sensor.  Solar powered.  Hope it works as intended. 

Tim

10

Unfortunately, I currently don’t have room in my house to store tools.  #3.  I have one window that I am going to remove.  #4.  I have done just that.  The remaining tools are located in various locations and I left some of my older tools clearly visible.  #5.  I am a backyard hack, so I can’t justify a separate shop for board building.  I don’t routinely keep multiple boards in my shop.  I was lucky this time.  Until I finalize a security plan, all access points to shop are secured with multiple screww fasteners.  I will convert to a combination of screw heads, star heads, square heads.

Thanks for the advice.

Tim

11

I suggest going OLD school.

Several ideas here:  http://shelterpubcom.nationprotect.net/_shelter/sss_latches.html

The hidden pull string that raises and lowers a bar across the inside of the door is a good one.  

 

 

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12

If I were really concerned about security around my home or shop;  I would purchase one of those remote systems that you install yourself.  It alerts to your cell phone and can be monitored via cell phone.  Very simple set up.  Remote cameras, alarm,and sensors.  Harbor Freight also sells a camera security system.  You don’t need most of the hardware suggested in previous posts with a remote system.  You could get $1,000’s tied up in the hardware mentioned in above previous posts.  

13

But wouldn’t people see the string hanging outside the house? The image is hard to tell.