Being a fellow NW surfer some things I found that work best for our breaks are:
Thicker
Flatter Rocker
Like it was stated above there are lots of variables to factor in. Talk to some of our local shapers, Lanny Shuler and Bryan Bates know a ton about what it takes to make a good NW board.
You’re older, don’t live near the beach and started surfing late in life.
If you were able to forget about all your pre-conceived notions about surfing and what others can do on a wave and just go out and ride a board that is easy to paddle, catch waves on and felt good to ride across the wave face then you wouldn’t be riding either of those boards.
Try finding a surfshop that has lots of second hand boards and will allow you to take a few for a paddle (one at a time) if you leave a security deposit. Try to find an egg shape or similar around 7’+ long. Even have a go on a longboard.
Keep an open mind.
Settle on a board that allows you to catch waves easily and feels good for now.
Surfboards are relatively inexpensive and don’t generally last very long.
So its not like you’re buying a house you are going to settle down in. If you don’t like a board, it’s no big deal to get rid of it.
Steve Forstall did the original that Yancy made. It was a squash and then a roundtail. Y.S. put a swallow on it. The roundtail version is the best. I rode mine last week. They ride like skateboard. Mine is only 2 3/4 thick and the thickest part and the tail is less than an inch.
I have a bamboo one on my site. I have ridden that board you have…they ride nothing like the originals. Not nearly as fast. the best lenght on them was 7’2’’ 17 3/4 x 22.5 x 15 5/8 x 3 at the center. I also had one with a 16’’ tail.