Semi opaque hot coat to cover +%}* ups

Hi  I have just completed my first tinted lamination. On the first go i ran a little short of resin and had to work it really hard to get the laps wet. I got it all down but there are alot of marks which came off my rubber gloves as i mauled it in a state of panic. My cutlaps are a little messy too.

I was this thinking of doing a semi opaque tinted hotcoat to clean it up a bit.

Question 1:

Would it be better to do a straight up tinted hot coat and try not to sand through. ( could have exact match coloured resin just in case)  Do a tinted hotcoat followed by a clear hotcoat and then sand?

Question 2:

How do you mix a semi opaque. Could I add a little white resin to the tinted resin of do i need to get some pigment?

Thanks

 

I was this thinking of doing a semi opaque tinted hotcoat to clean it up a bit……awesome!

There’s tints…and there’s pigments…and opaque colors.

There’s no such thing as “semi opaque”…sometimes you can’t go half way…kind of like pregant…

…grab your girlfriend and look up opaque in the dictionary…

and I love you too…Stingray

I did a red opaque bottom once, and as it was my first colored glass job, it also had some blotchy spots. i covered the blotchy spots with colored resin and followed it up by a clear coat. you have to be careful with the sanding to avoid sanding through these spots, with makes the “not so nice”-spots visible again. 

Unlikely to get a good result from a colored hot coat b/c it will be much harder to sand it evenly than you think.  DAMHIK…  But depending on what you got it might be possible to improve things a bit.

 

http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/semi-opaque

thanks for the help stingray…

i think I will just go ahead and hot coat as normal after a little further reading. Thanks for the answers…

My .02, remember just because you use pigment (vs tint), you still have to use a lot more than you might think to get a truly opaque color