I’m doing another gemini-like devil board for a big-guy(he calls himself setamroller) as a present.
it is a classic crazy oneula hackmobile constructed out of 3 2" slabs of .75lb homedepot EPS with a doorskin perimeter stringer and bluedow rails. top and bottom will be 1mil homedepot woven bamboo mat and I’m now covering the blue dow rails in 1/16" balsa for weight and protection.
anyway if you know the design, it has like a 1/2" full concave that starts about 18"-24" from the twin tips right through the tail. I’m using precisionboard inserts but my problem is in setting the boxes(Probox, FCS Fusions or O’fishls).
with that much concave going through the narrowness of the tail, I’m stuck trying to figure out how to set the quad boxes with that much bottom curve so I can get the right 90 degree angle without exposure a huge chunk of one side of the box or insetting the other side too deeply below the bottom on the other side.
Any suggestions?
and no, eventhough glass-ons would help I need to do boxes on this one…
Hey Oneula - Can you post a pic/drawing of the tail area?
My recollection is the channel spreads out at the end.
My thoughts: get the board level, side to side… Tape a straight edge across, then use that as a source to set your cants off. I don’t know what type of deal those fins have to set cant with, but I’m sure you could figure out a way to use the temp “horizon” to work off… Got compass and tape?!? Ha!
Plus… I work of the premise, the board is going through changes all the time, and even if there a little differences in the fins relative to each other, baring big “F” ups, one would get the feel for it and it wouldn’t make any difference in the overall performance of the board, e.g., if you had two “twin” boards, and the only difference was the fins being different from each other by a couple degrees (again, within reasonable parameters) I don’t think many folk would notice the difference.
You can roll out the concve so it’s slightly flatter out in the fin area, allowing a more level install.
Or, if you use Fusion, they’re available with 3 choices of cant built in, the 9 degree is designed to yield 5-6 degrees in 1/4’‘-3/8’’ deep concaves. You can ‘‘steal’’ a degree or two in the install w/o compromising strength yield.
Or you can do the cant in the fin base (a la Futures or FCS H2). Rich (halcyon) can make anything you want.
Oneula, I don’t know about cants in Futures but FCS Fusions are offered with two different cants: 5° and 9°, the later being targeted precisely at deep concaves such as bonzers.
i told him i’d make him one so he can scare the sh*t out of everyone in the lineup.
i think a 240lb hawaiian moke coming down the line with the devil horns out front and no wetsuit on should scare the cr*p out of everyone. all he needs is a dreadlock wig under his baseball hat…
the problem guys is the base.cause as i rotate the box to get to the right fin position i expose one side of the box and dig in the other making then fit useless. that’s the problem
here’s some pics of some older boards I own/made including a big-boy version I made for another 230lb friend
please e-mail me (mysticsurfboards@comcast.net) and i’ll be glad to share what i’ve gleaned from the dozen i’ve built…i tried in vain to reply to your question back in january through the sways pm system but apparently the half dozen messages i sent weren’t received…
I think I get it now - the fin area is right on the transition into the concave. If you’re doing HD inserts, you could just do regular FCS plugs and it would be easy. Except the fins might not sit flush on the bottom if there’s curve between the plugs. If plugs aren’t an option, then you want the smallest footprint box, which would be Fusion I believe. You can also do the route, push the box in, and sand a little on the foam against the box to ‘‘fit’’ the bottom to the install. You have to do the route so the highest part of the box is flush, then bring down the foam on other side/end to meet box edge.
the center fins ended up pointing inward instead of straight up cause they are the back proboxes.
I have to use the H2s back there with their 10 degree cnt just to get back to vertical
that’s why i asked.
Mike
I end up sanding a good chunk of the box and burying the other side that I have to build up with glass or filler just to level the bottom back out after setting the box to provide vertical back fins,
thanks everyone…
Aloha Jim!
I’ll email you
not many of us out there making these on their own (thanks JA cause its a great design)
I wonder what the guys at the HIC factory thought about fitting fins and glassing these demons for him.
no wonder it took almost a year plus to get my original custom.
Hi oneula, Which way would you like to install ProBoxes? 1.) Down in the middle of the concave. 2.) In the side of a single concave to Zero 90 using the tool in the pic below.3.) In the top of a double concave, notice the side runners below. The rear ProBox has 8 degree inserts in and the front has 6 degree, but they look almost the same when looking from the tail of the board. Let me know which way you would like to go and I will be happy to help. Mahalo,Larry
Howzit Bernie, The way I deal with those heavy concaves is to lay a straight edge flat across the whole bottom from rail to rail and measure my angle degrees off of it, always worked for me. The only problem I have ever come across with really deep concaves was some systems lips are to thin and when you sand the fin box area you can sand through the edges of the box but it seems like you already figured a way around that.Coming to you through the mobi wireless communications unit.Aloha,Kokua
Fusion or Probox? You can’t go wrong there, both are great systems. Sitting them across the roll-in of the concave it sort of comes down to when you want to do the fairing; preglass or postglass?
For your next thread are you going to ask us how to install a box in a deep-6 so that the fin comes out of the channel wall?
I can see it now, ''Perplexing Fin Box Problems from Hawaii" (not available in stores! sways special only!)
