Seven steps to surfing like a pro

Listening to the problems over the hears of mass produced boards and surfboard craftsmen being driven out of business or underground, I’ve often thought that shapers ahould have a unified approach towards selling hand-crafted surfboards (something like the 4 C’s of diamonds, now almost universally used as a way to educate consumers about what to look for- see http://www.diasource.com/fourcs.htm, for instance)

Having just read another book on decision making (Highlights - to make a person like a board more - charge them more; to make a brand more valuable, make it scarce and expensive; use an ultra-expensive model as a way to drive people to the premium model you actually want to sell, etc.), I thought it time to jot down the bits and pieces of ideas I’ve put together over the years so that you could hone it, adapt it and adopt it: I was trying for the 7 S’s of surfboards, but I couldn’t get the alphabet to cooperate, so I settled for:

The Seven steps towards surfing like a pro:

  1. Shaper: Experienced shapers have the knowledge and ability to tailor materials to your needs. They work with the dimensions of boards to get what will work best for you (say a deeper concave if you’re stocky and pwerful; or a thinner tail if you like to surf forward). A hand shaper will spend time cutting each board to the close tolenrances that pros demand in their boards.

  2. Blank: Not all blanks are created equal. Apart from the variety of material available and the variations within the material, there are considerations about water absorption, ability to maintain flexible and resistance to sun. How do you know that your polyeurathane blank has not been deep cut from a thick blank, thus removing the crust where all the strength resides - leading you with all the weight of PU but none of the strength? How can you tell if the Expanded Polystyrene is 1lb/cu ft or 2 lb. Each has it’s place, but the core density needs to be considered when the board is skinned. Blanks can twist after they are cut, leaving the finished board with a twist and strange characteristics. Can you pick this under shop lights?

3.Stringer: Stringers are not simply a strip of ply down the middle of a board. They can have different thicknesses, be of different quality, or not even be wood or down the middle. Reputable shapers have spent years selecting their stringer technology to match their shapes, cores and skins.

  1. Cloth: You can get 4oz cloth that costs $300 a roll or one that costs $600 a roll. They are not equal. You are paying for coatings that allow the cloth to integrate better with the resin; for individual threads that might be longer or shorted, or for fibres that are woven in formats intended to to promote strength in the most important direction. Cloth widths may be different. Narrower cloth is cheaper, but it might not be wide enough to provide full laps. Has your board been built with laps that meet midrail, compromising strength, or do they overlap top and bottom?

  2. Resin: Polyester or epoxy. Seems like a simple choice, doesn’t it? Now consider the hundreds or thousands of vareties of each and the wide range of prices. Where is performance/value optimal? Would you prefer to speak to a shaper about the quality resin he uses or believe that your discount board maker just got an incredible deal on a batch of resin?

  3. Construction: Hand or machine shaped? Hand laminated or infused? Conventional or composite? Are the shape, core, cloth and glass optimal or has a light glass job been used to provide flex to a thick, domed board? Sure the wood looks cool, but is it a fabric print or real wood? Is the wood too thick to let the board flex where it needs to? How were the fins (fin system) seated? Just a hole in the board with a bit or resin or are they keyed to the top deck or onto a reinforced layer in the bottom deck or foam inserts in the core All of these are complex questions best answered by an expert.

  4. Finish: The board looks fantastic under shop lights. Is that a gloss rub back or a spray on finish? How long will those colours last in sunlight? Why is the board sprayed in (urethane) car paint - is it to hide defects in the glass job or filler in dents? Measure the board rail to rail. Is it even or is one side wider than the other? Are the rails the same all around the board?

Largely you get what you pay for. When you buy a discount board the producer is saving time or money somewhere. Are you prepared to find out where when you are in the tube of your life or do you want to fly out of it like a champion?

Don’t risk it - work with a craftsman who stands behind his work. Shapers are surfboard experts who can help you surf more like a pro.

… Or something

Not too attached to it, so lay into it. Add, subtract, divide (and all the food groups)

7

i would like to know how to SURF like a pro

1 . get the right board

  1. When you are on the wave look where you want to go

  2. Technique, how can you really learn well sitting behind your computer??

  3. Any good books or vids?

We aren’t all going to be able to surf like pros, sometimes you just have to be happy with your lot in life.Strive to perfect your own style is a better way of putting i reckon.And most of all how to maximise your surfing enjoyment.

The seven steps to maximising your surfing enjoyment and perfecting your surfing style.

:slight_smile:

I agree with that - perfect your own style. Style is hard to define, but you know it when you see it. At my age and with my particular surfing history, I am content to continue to strive for a longboard style that was imprinted on me during the 60’s. But, regardless of type of board, experience always tells the story. Thousands of waves ridden, plus an individual’s personality and talent is what makes for style. Style is always a pleasure to behold and you can usually recognize it (or its absence) at a glance.

When I was learning how to surf, the surfing profession was making boards. There wasn’t any money in just surfing. What you did was watch the surfers in your area and then try to do the things you thought were the best. If you were lucky, you could go to the surf movies and see guys from other parts of the world surf.

Some guys were power surfers making really hard turns and tight arcs. Some guys were making a lot of turns, but with more of a gliding style. Some guys liked to cruise in the sweet spot, just making enough turns to stay right where the power is.

I think it’s important to ride a wave in a manner that fits with the wave and looks natural and smooth. That changes as the waves get larger and of more consequence.

hi red

this is humour but also a grain a truth for some surfers and offers an alternate way of thinking

  1. Shaper:dont need one. get that your favourite scaned and cut so you can have your fav reproduced everytime

  2. Blank: doesnt matter if you like light polys its only a matter of weeks the survival of your new disposable poly stick

3.Stringer: if you must have one of these dated construction aspects. get a thicker one

  1. Cloth: heavy cloth strong board. light cloth weak board

  2. Resin: makes no difference . epoxy goes yellow and a bit tougher

Construction: makes no difference. it wont make you want to paddle over the ledge anymore on an 8 ft set

Finish: 100 grit looks a bit grubby as it picks up the dirt. 180 looks better

if your favorite board is cheap and imported by all means buy it over and over again. just dont paddle it out near me.

in fact can no one please surf anywhere near me unless you are hot chick in rubber or best mate.

Don’t try surf like a pro. pros are sport whores who promote surfing and cause overcrowding. if you find yourself starting to surf like a pro, it is likely the wanker attitude surrounding these surfers will start to emerge from you

Man you sure are bitter!But you can build boards so props to you.

not bitter karl

just sceptical

just imagine if there was no one watching , would anyone even really care what we looked like when we surf

i couldnt give a rats

Just need the extremely rare breed of surfer that is actually willing to spend some money on their boards…

Well…

Now I get it as far as buying a board and knowing what to look for. Now I have a pro board.

SURF like a pro? I doubt if the world’s finest board is going to help my sorry ass.

Can I just be reborn to Kelly Slater’s parents?

sorry id rather be a kook and short and bald

such is the divergence of the surfing mind.

to be a pro,motional,surfer

Or a Professional ,surfer

must first be determined.

this is the dilema of this

epoch of surfing evolution.

then and only the can this discussion go on to

the greater question of what is good,

[the primary question that continues

to plague our little corner of the universe }

promotional = to promote oneself

or products for sale to the surfing mass market.

Professional = to teach as a professor of

knowlege or skills to those wishing to learn.

surfing like a pro? as a sales pich seems to be rooted ,

in this case ,to the former ,promotional.

the premise,to educate the consumer to make an

educated choice to purchase a surfboard of higher quality

from a source more costly than the purveyed mass market schlock

noble in words but easily disolved into just another suspicious

sales pitch when the consumer is a cynic.

the Iconification of the talented surfers

who have freely chosen to package and market their

gifts is common in history and other subcultures as well.

the parralel history of surfing as the last refuge for

individual effort and unmeasurable

accomplishment is at odds with

promotional surfing.

the analogy of high martial art’s

zenlike pursuit of perfection

for perfection’s sake

and the growth the unlimited fighting

for fame and fortune

to this surfing evolutionary phase

does not go unnoticed to the critical mind.

…?

To build

good better best

surfboards

and be appreciated

for what you make

and how they work

is a goal of grand proportion

live your dream and the world

will come to realize what is best.

…ambrose…

a market share graph

…doesn’t make it so.

make a better machine

make hot boards worth

less and less and less.

make one better board

and it becomes worth

more and more and more.

build a better Jackass?

build a better carriage?

which one goes in front?

make that last post

id rather be a kook THAN bald and short

btw ambrose id rather make poor people happy and sell my boards for as little as possible

then deal with rich wankers that think because they have more money they get something better

How to surf like a pro?

I’ve known Kelly since he was born and his parents for a long time before that.

I was one of his first sponsors. His Mom worked for me when he was young. My ex wife rented them the house in Cocoa Beach where he grew up.

And I know his secret for being such a great surfer.

Kelly would get up in the morning while it was still dark and head the couple of blocks to the beach with his board.

If there were good waves, he would surf.

If there were bad waves, he would surf

If it was windy. He would surf.

If it was cold, he would surf.

If there was no surf, he would surf.

He’d come in just in time to go to school

After school he would head to the beach with his board.

If there were good waves, he would surf.

If there were bad waves, he would surf

If it was windy. He would surf.

If it was cold, he would surf.

If there was no surf, he would surf.

He would stay in the water until well after dark.Sometimes a couple of hours after dark according to his Mom.

The next day he would do it all over again.

Feedback on the headline is unanimous

How about:

They laughed when I drove into the parking lot

.but when I took my board out of the bag …

Ambrose,

I’m glad you got the premise

Can’t wail about cheap knockoffs without educating the customer.

Silly,

Your 1-7 is far more direct. Will probably work better.

Hey Bill -

That’s more than seven steps!

I figured there must be a reason or two. Having a sponsor at an early age with support from his family couldn’t have hurt but his dedication and practice have obviously paid off.

His skill level is simply phenomenal. No amount of bitching about his hairline or whatever can take that away from him.

It was sometime around 1981-82 when Dick Catri came to me and said he had some hot little Menehunes on his team. Would I be interested in outfitting the team in my brand of surf wear (Sundek). It was a no brainer. Even though I’d never really heard of the kids, I knew their parents: Kelly and Judy Slater, Pat O’Hare, Carol Holland.

The kids: Kelly, the Seans (Slater and O’Hare) have all gone on to be influential in the surfing world. Kelly though, of course, stands head and shoulders above the crowd.

One of the reasons I believe that so many hot surfers came from Cocoa Beach and the entire Brevard County area are a perfect storm of factors: Good weather year round, rideable surf which although not world class by any means turns out to be perfect surf for training, and real estate prices which over the last fifty years have allowed middle and even low income families to live within walking distance to the beach. If Kelly had grown up a few miles rather than a few hundred feet from the beach he would not have had the opportunity to practice as much as he did as a youngster.

To bring this into the context of the original post above, having the best equipment at a young age is a big help, no doubt. But in Kelly’s case it was the dedication and the practice as much as it was the equipment. After all, he was the hottest surfer around long before he got the free state of the art equipment.

Seven steps to surfing like a pro;

step 1. Step off the firmament and into the liquid. Feel free to leave the “like a pro” bit behind.