I am looking for time saving tips for shaping 50/50 rails. Most of these boards are 9’6 to 10’0. This is a lot of curve to deal with. I am currently shaping top down then bottom up, leaving 3/4 inch flat in the middle with the planer. Then I use the shear form and some old 40 grit cupped in my pawm to get the desired feel. It takes me a long time to get booth rails even nose to tail. Any suggestions?
just an idea… i saw a good shaper do this once. he had a small block of wood (maybe 3-4 inch long and probably 1-1.5’ thick). it was rabbeted down with a planer on one side… so it looked like an L. each leg on the L had the same length. after the blank was cut the rails on the thing are 90 degree angles so he fit the L block on the blank, put a pencil on the edge and moved the pencil and block along the board… then he did it for the edge on the bottom side of the L. and then the same thing on the other side. seemed to work pretty well, good way of making things even. its really a LOT easier than i made it sound. anyway, i hope that helped a little bit
…he had a small block of > wood (maybe 3-4 inch long and probably 1-1.5’ thick). … A diagram of this tool (one like it) can be seen in the board forum on this site. Look under “Diagrams” from Peter Rijk. Instead of just putting the pencil on the edge of the block, you should drill holes in measured increments (I use half-inch increments on mine). Then stick the pencil through one of the holes, drag along blank, and your line is more precise. Be sure to use thin pieces of wood, like masonite or 1/8- or 1/4-inch ply. Don’t use 2x4 or anything that thick…you won’t be able to fit the pencil’s lead all the way through. Another note to the intitiator of this thread: Skip the surform step. Plane down to your center lines, then go straight to the rough-grit sand paper. I use 36-grit. Then go finer from there after you’ve got your shape.
Another note to the intitiator of this thread: Skip the surform step. > Plane down to your center lines, then go straight to the rough-grit sand > paper. I use 36-grit. Then go finer from there after you’ve got your > shape. Forgot to mention: To ensure that everything stays even, count your strokes on each side while swiping it with sand paper. Then use the same amount of strokes on the other side. Also try to use same amount of pressure on each side and try to keep your hand shaped the same in each section on each side. But above all, remember: It’s not a race. Take your time.
Have used the little contour guages with lots of stiff wires that slide in and out through the handle. I put masking tape on opposite rails to keep the wires from poking the foam and position the wires to match the foam on one rail, then check opposite side. It doesn’t replace “eyeballing” the blank for irregularities.
Have used the little contour guages with lots of stiff wires that slide in > and out through the handle. I put masking tape on opposite rails to keep > the wires from poking the foam and position the wires to match the foam on > one rail, then check opposite side. It doesn’t replace > “eyeballing” the blank for irregularities. unlike a lot of shapers,i use dragon skin to began blending the rail bands, with the board deck up. i only do about 6-8 passes on each one with an old piece thats bent into a nice curve. biggest thing is count your strokes…
Have used the little contour guages with lots of stiff wires that slide in > and out through the handle. I put masking tape on opposite rails to keep > the wires from poking the foam and position the wires to match the foam on > one rail, then check opposite side. It doesn’t replace > “eyeballing” the blank for irregularities. John, I also use a contour gauge for ensuring symmetry, but I bought one at Home Depot that’s made with plastic sliders instead of metal pins. They are flat slats and don’t poke the foam like the pins. It was pretty cheap too. Just adding my wheat-penny…deeb…
A diagram of this tool (one like it) can be seen in the board forum on > this site. Look under “Diagrams” from Peter Rijk. Instead of > just putting the pencil on the edge of the block, you should drill holes > in measured increments (I use half-inch increments on mine). Then stick > the pencil through one of the holes, drag along blank, and your line is > more precise. Be sure to use thin pieces of wood, like masonite or 1/8- or > 1/4-inch ply. Don’t use 2x4 or anything that thick…you won’t be able to > fit the pencil’s lead all the way through.>>> Another note to the intitiator of this thread: Skip the surform step. > Plane down to your center lines, then go straight to the rough-grit sand > paper. I use 36-grit. Then go finer from there after you’ve got your > shape. A common door hinge for this purpose works pretty neat too.
I am looking for time saving tips for shaping 50/50 rails. Most of these > boards are 9’6 to 10’0. This is a lot of curve to deal with. I am > currently shaping top down then bottom up, leaving 3/4 inch flat in the > middle with the planer. Then I use the shear form and some old 40 grit > cupped in my pawm to get the desired feel. It takes me a long time to get > booth rails even nose to tail. Any suggestions? Yeh, keep doing what you’re doing, doing rails isn’t a piece of cake. The only difference I could see in your approach is that I turn my bottom rail first, it is what you rely on while riding. Other than that, it takes as long as it takes. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com