Getting ready to shape some retro type Hulls. I used to do shapes like this in the late 60’s. Planning on using US blanks. Boards will be classic rolled bottom going to soft V. Lengths will be around 7’0" give or take.
Any thoughts on the best blanks for this purpose and how are you guys shaping the S decks? I used to plane it in using cross strokes. I have been out of the board building deal for a few years and appreciate any input.
I used to use Walker blanks with a relaxed rocker but they are no more…I haven’t seen a US blank worth crap for “hulls” in stock at Mitch’s (mostly due to the rocker) so you’ll probably have to order one up special or use their version of the 9’ yater blank and mow off the excess. I like the longboard blanks because you can put the breaks in the right places without sacrificing too much thickness.
Remember that you can’t look at the deck profile without thinking about the bottom. So the term “S-Deck” seems to imply that it is just a deck rocker but really its 1/2 of the foil for the board. So, in general, you have to integrate the hump with the greatest hull depth. Hard to put in words. Look at a couple of good “hulls” and you’ll start to see how it works. Try and get some boards from different shapers and you’ll see.
If you measure “hull” depth as the rail apex to the stringer (lay a level 90 degrees to the stringer and measure the distance from the level bottom to the rail apex), my deepest “hull” is usually just in front of the hump and roughly coincides with the first rocker break. You can move the “hull” around fore and aft to adjust the performance and sweet spot. If you don’t compensate by moving or flattening the deck rocker you end up with a big hunk of foam in the wrong spot and the board won’t perform as well.
As I’ve said before, words, drawings and even pictures don’t tell the story as well as having the real deal in front of you while you are shaping to see if you are getting close.
I cross cut the nose spoon. Hit the stringer at an angle and go slow.
Hope I don’t sound condescending Mr. Clean. I don’t mean too. The modern “hull” is so much more refined than those boards from the sixties. Have fun!
I don't have any suggestions for blanks or technique. Here are a couple of photos I took recently of a friend's old Yater. It has a radical S deck and absolutely flat tail rocker...
I actually think “Hull” is probably not the right name for what I am going to shape. I use the term loosly to decribe a basic single fin fun shape with roll in the front third of the bottom. rails will be retro late 60’s.Kind of a modified 50/50 rail with down rails ath the tail.
I am on the east coast and found that these Fun Shapes/mini longboards work great. The boards I made in the late 60’s were copied from Jim Phillips “Soul Creation” models and the Australian boards such as Shane and Keyo. When I worked with Jim Phillips we had a deck shaping machine that routed the S deck profile. When I opened my own factory I didn’t have a machine so I planed the decks by hand.
I had pretty much already decided that I would have to use the longboard “Yater” blank to get what I want. (thanks for the advice). I don’t mind planing in foil as that was how I learned on old thick blanks. Hell back then you had to shape the blank before you could shape the blank.
Last time I tried cross planing a Clark blank I blew out the stringer. Will have to mess about with this. AM open for more ideas on this. Thanks!!
I never had problems with cross cutting redwood. Bass wood and spruce would come apart no matter how slow I cut. What you are describing sounds pretty hully to me! As long as you marry the bottom with the deck and it all flows to the back, they should go great! Clear volan will complete the ensamble…
I never thought about the redwood factor. Will be buying US blanks from Ross Houston in Melbourne,Fla. Not sure if they stock redwood. I used to glue up my own blanks for a while. Had a hard time finding flat weave Volan but Fiberglass Hawaii has it in stock.
Going to do glass on fin. I like the Greenough type profile. Would like to have some stock fiberglass fins and maybe some ultra nice glued up wood fins with halos. Any body know where I can get a few?
I am getting super stoked about this venture. I am finally in a position to build what I want and don’t have to scrape up $$$$. Ironically I have had people approach me about building them a board and when I said “no custom orders” they want them even more. Go figure.
Like I said I have been out of the loop for around 7 years and I am gonna do some serious brain picking. I love Swaylocks.
Howzit Mr,Clean,It's like riding a bike, you never forget how to do it and once you make that first pass you will most likely slap yourself on the forehead ans say " I remember this " and just go for it. The last time I saw one done they did the cross the blank like the old days and the only difference is he had a 1/4" bass stringer instead of a half " redwood. I have faith in you my friend. Aloha,Kokua