Aloha guys n gals. 1. I’m using some shaping software and the rail cross sections carry the hard edge too far up the board and the nose isn’t a nice rounded rail. 2. How far up the board do you recommend for a hard tail 5’10 fish?
Mahalo.
It depends on what you want from the board?! My last fish i kept the hard edge only in the last 6" of the tail. Slight uprail on the nose! I’m still a newbie myself in the grand scheme of things, some of the more experienced guys might chip in. Happy shaping. Slanj
Do you have a cutting machine in Shizuoka?
No cutting machine here locally. This is for my hand shaping. Why do you ask? Anyway, I fixed the nose slices by deleting the originals and adding new ones after. I’m still having trouble with the tail transition. It goes from a hard edge at 6" up to rounded rail at 12" now. The pic above was the slice at 24" before adjusting. Did the same thing, deleted the slices and placed new ones in.
My personal preference is a square bottom rail to the leading edge of the fins.
I ask because I’m curious if you were getting your blanks milled. Now may I ask why you are using CAD for hand shaping? Anyway, I sent you a pm with contact info since you are pretty close to me.
Thanks Every. Sounds like I’m pretty close to your personal preference.
Same slice at 24" after deleting and adding a new one.
There must be some way to get a smoother transition though. The Bay view shows a noticeable bump in the tail.
Dlock
From the look of the pics you are trying to over control your design. I use 4 slices. I place slices where the feature is maximised.
I put one at the tail because that’s where my rails are square and hard edged.
I have a slice between the fins for the spiral vee I favour. Typically this is a copy of my centre or tail slice with a modified bottom and more curved rails.
I have a slice near centre where rails are softest and concave is deepest.
I have a slice near the nose where the rails invert (hard edge near top).
I let the software interpolate and check that the flows are smooth. I usually scroll to and fro through the slices because this is a good way to pick up on wierd transitions. If you see a wobble as you move through, then there will be a blip in your blank or template.
Takes a bit of dicking around to get the transitions smooth and bottom contours where you want them. It helps if you have some figures for transition from zero undertuck to max undertuck (mine is 7/16" at centre, from memory and more up front)
Remember that a slice affects flow not only to the next slice, but to the one after, too, so you can get a knock on effect and insurmountable problems if you have too many slices.