Well, I'm coming up on 50 yrs, and I'm looking for inspiration on a shortboard. I've been shaping and riding eggs and mini-eggs for about 5 years now, and am thinking about shaping a surfboard for thumping and pitching beachbreak (Oceanside harbor, etc.) I'm wondering what people in my similar demographics are using for shortboards in similar conditions. My boards are great in point and slopier type surf, but are a little too wide for the quickness of the barrel type of conditions when the beachbreaks get big and start throwing. I have found many threads on shortboards for big guys (most of which are a couple years old), but I'm looking for some true shortboard ideas for the bigger/older surfer. I'm 5'10 and fluctuate between 190-200 lbs, and been surfing 27 years. I'm thinking 6'5 ish and wider and thicker (21" wide and 2.75 thick) to compensate for age and weight, and I like rounded pins. I'm not quite sure of the tail and nose width of this type of board, since I haven't shaped one like this yet. Conceptually, I'm thinking about a higher volume shortboard that isn't a fish. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
something like this is what my friend rides , same age and weight as you . his is 6-2 x 20.5 x 2.5 .
[img_assist|nid=1048237|title=Deck|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]13 1/2" tail 12" nose 6’-7" tri fin. Don’t let the length scare you, you are trying to make pitching waves, and need a little speed. 5 1/2" nose 1 3/4" entry rocker for the late drops. Narrower tail to not get hung at the top.
2 1/2" tail rocker, with vee. A little flatter under the back 1/3 of the board. You’re aren’t planning on turning, just getting down the line.
Surfed down your way a few weeks ago during the SA's at the peak of the swell. Got a couple at the jetty and then surfed at the condo's for the rest of the session. O side is a special break as you need to be in the top 1/3rd of the wave to get a good ride. I'm a bit older than you so I need more length, but I would suggest that you think about shaping a 6/8" x 20+ for your age and weight. You won't know the difference in a few inches and will appreciate the increase in wave count. Under 21" should help in the rail to rail surfing. Keep the nose around 12" or so to not hang in the lip. I would put the wide point at 2 -3" back and do a thumb tail instead of a rounded pin to help catching waves a bit outside. A thumb won't affect hold or turning in O-side surf and you won't notice the difference in turning. Standard fin setup for thrusters, flat to shallow concave to flat in the tail should work well. I can pm you more specifics if you want. Just my 2c...
dis a 6 4
deep. single concave by 2 3/4 to 3 inches thick . 21 1/2 to 22 wide . fat rail and volume under chest
low entry nose rocker and plenty of tail rocker
and watch the pack part when you paddle through. wide point forward
dis a 6 footer by 3 inches thick
have a look at simon andersons boards hes old and rips and on a shortboard and is the god i spose
maybe something like this design in dims of 6’6" x 20" and volume as you like it…
http://www.moresurfboards.com/quadfather.html
I do a few of these shapes for guys in similar situation to you with good results, usually do them shorter due to reduced rocker and increase in length for bigger waves or when a surfer needs the responsiveness toned down a bit for a cruisier ride and less radical turns to be done…they are really fast and drivey, quad fins hold well in tube and steep drops, they also drive well in weaker waves, quite versatile…
50 yrs 5’10 200 lbs
eggs for about 5 years now
what ive seen of photos of ocean beach is a heavy large closeout beach break with badass paddling
u want a paddler and good one . really hard to do in a short board mate
3 inches thick by 22 wide, minimum by 6 4 or 6 6 mebe at the most
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I can pm you more specifics if you want.
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I would appreciate it.
That's the type of shape I had in mind, although I am re-thinking things based on the suggestions above. I looked at the Webber Sonic and was thinking of beefing it up in the 6'5 range.
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I'm a bit older than you so I need more length, but I would suggest that you think about shaping a 6/8" x 20+ for your age and weight. You won't know the difference in a few inches and will appreciate the increase in wave count. Under 21" should help in the rail to rail surfing. Keep the nose around 12" or so to not hang in the lip. I would put the wide point at 2 -3" back and do a thumb tail instead of a rounded pin to help catching waves a bit outside.
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Do you think keeping the wide point at center will help with the paddling? The last true shortboard I made is similar to yours (6'8 x 11.75n 20.25 x 14.75t x 2 5/8) with the wide point -2", and I still ride it occasionally. Although it is squirrely as hell, it doesn't catch waves as much as I'd like. I always attributed that to lack of foam up front.
6’4" x 20" x 2 3/4" quad. This is one of my local riders Dan who is 6’ and 190 and I think in his mid 30’s, I know that’s younger than 50 but with the right board and fitness level anything is possible. Jersey beach break 2 days ago
Tom
Killer looking board. What's the tail and nose width on it? Those are the types of conditions I am making it for.
Also-I see that tail shape around a lot more lately. Is it easy to make that out of my squash tail template? It looks like you extend it about 2" to a point in the middle? If so, how do these tails perform on a short/wide/thick thruster?
The Aloha Bean also comes to mind. The 6'6 is 21" wide, and I figure a rounded pin would fit well into that shape.
dcasey: Check out this link: http://www.sauritchsurfboards.com/enabler.html I had one of these made just for O’side beachies. I LOVE this board and the thumb tail, I had it made with 5 fin boxes. It paddles and catches waves like it’s a foot longer. Shaped and glassed in Oceanside. My next board I shape is going to be 6’8" x 21 x 2.75 version of my 7’2" Enabler. The fairly low entry rocker lets you catch waves with ease. It works well at the harbour as a quad, but when it gets bigger, I put in a nubster fin that I cut down from a small trailer fin for more hold on the steeper faces. Best board ever (so far). I’m 61 and the extra volume of this type of board is keeping my on short (for me) boards.
At 57 but only 170 and 5’9 I still make myself ride 5’8 to 6’1. I’m lucky to still be riding shortboards. I make a lot of bigger shortboards for bigger shorter guys who rip. If it was me I would say make it more 80’s style 5 box. 6’4 x 20 x 2 1/2 for your build. Keeping it full wide point forward with a single to dub.
If you want to get back on shortboards you need to design a shortboard that will surf in the barrel. If you want a board that paddles then stay on an egg. If you’re surfing Barrels you’re taking off late anyway because you’re sitting deeper. It then becomes technique and not paddling.
Thick shortboards don’t surf as good as thinner boards do.
I’m 60 and riding 6-0 fishes and a 5-6 MS. Short is OK, but I need a wider platform so 20+ inches is good. Paul Cannon above taught me, in a previous post, how to figure the length you need based on the width of your stance. Thank you, Paul.
In a 25 yd pool, push off the wall and lightly swim 2 or 3 strokes. For the middle 20 yds swim all out taking about 10 to 12 strokes. Cruise to the wall on the last 2 or 3 strokes. Wait 2 minutes. No less. Do it again. At first repeat 4 times, but work yourself up to 10. Do this once a week, no more. Too hard on your rotator cuff. Swim as many yds as you can on the other days. Work up to 5 sets of continuous pop up drills on a carpeted surface. Don’t smoke. use Whey protein before and after each work out. Or drink a big fat chocolate milk. At your age, you need more protein than you ever did. Call me in the morning.
I’m 51, 190lbs, I ride a 6’6" x 21" x 2 5/8" in those types of conditions.
