Hey all! I’m contemplating my next board-a squash thruster with clean lines. I’ll keep a California friendly rocker and a pretty standard outline. This will be used in punchy 4-7 foot southern California beach break. My last was 6’6-19.5-2.5 but I want to go up in volume as I am now entering my late 30’s and am 6’1 210 lbs. I have a hesitation about going too long as I still want to be able to get the board vertical.I am contemplating going up a little in length maybe 6’8-19.5-2.5? or would something shorter like 6’4 and wider/ thicker be better for my foot placement? I would love to hear your opinions!
This is the board in my avitar. It has 5/1/2" nose and 2 1/2" tail rocker. I’m about your size and weight. I also made another with EPS and 4 1/2" nose rocker for less critical days, but for a steep barrel, go with the 5 1/2"
6’8" x 19.63" x 2.63" Thumbtail Thruster I will PM a plan if you like?
Im 6’ 185# and can get this 9’6 vertical on a lipsmack in head high surf,if you put your mind and body to it you will realize long is good!
Im 6’ 185# and can get this 9’6 vertical on a lipsmack in head high surf,if you put your mind and body to it you will realize long is good!
So can I and on smaller surf, but it still feels better on a 6’8’'.
Start out by going to a thickness of 2 5/8, thats a good all round thickness for CA. then I’d put on a 1/4 in to each side of the board, so now youe at 20 in wide. Keep the length the same, make sure the tail & nose is pulled in. Make that for the next board.
If your like me when I was 30, I kept on adding width and thickness to the boards. Add width before thickness…then thickness…then length. I kept doing that till the boards I surf now are 20 1/2 x 2 3/4 x 7’8" ±.
You can make a big board go vertical, it just learning to surf all over again. It’s a different animal, but still an animal.
I have to preface this though. I predominately surf reef & points. Not so much beach breaks.
You know there is an alternative option here, however, it means you don’t have to make a new board.
I had a similar situation last year as I passed the big 40 and went up to 200lb. I got stuck into my fruit and veg and ditched all the sugar and processed crap food. Your heart and girlfriend will thank you.
But if you went down to around 180lb, or normal weight, then there would be an excuse to make a 6’5"x19.25x2.5 or 2.38!
Just scale the whole thing up: add 1" in length, 1/4" in width, and 1/8" in thickness. Keep nose and tail dimensions close to original, other design elements the same as present board, and it’ll feel like you’re riding your old friend, just catching a few more waves.
" I have a hesitation about going too long as I still want to be able to get the board vertical."
Here is “Butter” on some of my thicker longer stuff. 7’-6" AND a 9’-4" getting “vertical”. At 6’ 210lbs do not be afraid to explore length and thickness. Granted Butter is bigger than you are now, just goes to show you that there is room to grow.
Their boards are as vertical as the leaning tower of Pisa
Anyone ever heard of Ray Lawrence. Arguably the best malibu rider in Australia. Lives right down the road from me. Now if you want vertical, there ya go. He shits on “the Leaning Tower of Pisa”.
Yea… a little wider and a little thicker, but not much longer.
You can also go a little wider in the tail (a quarter inch or so), and a little blockier back there, too, for some extra volume under your back foot. It’s not a popular way to go, but I’ve found it maintains a higher level of performance than adding a lot of volume overall, or going longer.
Also, think about lowering your entry rocker a bit if your having trouble getting your share of waves.
Thanks everyone! Lots of great input here. After contemplating the above advice I have decided to start out by keeping the 6’6 length and going wider and thicker making it 6’6-20-2 5/8 or 2 3/4 keeping the rails a little thinner and going wider with the tail (maybe 15.5) I am going to borrow my friends 6’8-20 something and hit the water right now and see how that goes.Thanks EVERYONE!!