[quote="$1"]
Someday Huck will move back to the beach......at some point in time the dust bowl will boil over...and Huck will bail....well....the dust bowl blows every summer.....do you really enjoy life in the middle of all that stuff? Honest????
Neat photos...thank goodness it's a 15 min drive to the beach with traffic...and my real job is 1.5 miles from the coast....my life is all fuc'td up...good thing I live near the coast...ha hah ha........................10 foot Pig Pig.....3 hour drive to C Street. I love that wave. So many waves down here......that's a long drive.....Ray...
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Hey Ray, good for you. Wish I lived by the beach too. Definitely sucks being a surfer in the desert! Of course, I'm pretty sure I'm not alone - we have two surf shops here. Dane Reynolds and McDing don't live here anymore, but there must be some other surfers beside me who still do!
At least I can be thankful that right now my real job is a five minute walk from the beach.
Every morning before going to work at this job, I surf dawn patrol.
I generally paddle out in the dark, and watch the sunrise from the water.
Here's the Huck Truck parked at the jobsite...
When this job is finished, I will move on to another. Sometimes they're close to the beach, sometimes not.
Living (as I do) in the desert, I have learned to savor every moment of my limited surfing time, every wipeout, every rolled wave or duck dive, every cry of the gulls and stare of the seals and graceful arch of the dolphin. I chat with the guys on the beach, and in the water, lend some wax or borrow a leash loop, and just generally have a pretty good time no matter what the waves are doing.
Sometimes I run into a fellow Swaylockian, and surf with him - he's got his own favorite spot in a secluded cove, and we sit in the lineup and talk about Swaylocks gossip LOL.
Often times, at week's end (on this job), I will take the 101 north to Ventura, then the 126 to the 5 on to Bakersfield. Its faster to take the 101 south to the 405 and the 5 and up over the grapevine, but I find Ventura a nice resting stop, with recreational opportunities that I enjoy taking advantage of. And it is my old home.
In my ideal world I would live near the beach and probably ride a high performance shortboard and surf every day. In my reality, I live in the desert, I usually ride a longboard (the reason I'm following this thread), and get out far less than I'd like sometimes.
I have learned to work toward my ideals, while not being discontented with my often very different reality. =)
