This ones for you Ben.
This is a fin for a project I have yet to reveal.
Glass-on fin.
High-density foam/fiberglass sandwich.
8 layers of 6oz. cloth in-between two 1/4" high density sheet foam.
Laminated with a roller.
Easy to foil.
Super light.
Good flex.
I predict these are for an SUP
The tab method is very interesting.
But it complicates foiling the base of the fin, any idea how this issue can be solved?
Quanta, can you explain a little please…
If that’s what I think it is, i had considered doing something similar to avoid having to fiddle with the tabs.
Hello fine people,
I just wanted to drop a little note incase it went unnoticed.
Blending Curves now has fin templates free to download!
I’d appreciate if you find any bugs to let me know. I’m also open to feedback if you have any.
Other than that, go nuts!
http://www.blendingcurves.com/temps/fins
Cheers,
Andrew
Very nice fins people!
Quanta-does the fiberglass piece have a slot for the wood part of the fin?
hi, im new to swaylocks (been lurking for sometime!)
here’s a greenough inspired fin for my latest log, cheers
[img_assist|nid=1076536|title=yellow fin|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=358]
[quote=“$1”]
please , can you post photos here of fins you have made ?
( I LOVE seeing other people’s fin work !)
cheers !
I made 3 of these some time ago with an FCS application in mind. 
Great thread … excellant work people. IMO the next revolution in surf design will be ALL about Fins. !!!
I am using router templates to rough cut the shape in various materials.
Comparable to the cuts of Josh’s CNC machine but less stages.
I found that 3 to 5 stages (depending on your foiling skills) are enough to get an accurate fin. (see http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/srpp-fin-build to get an idea on the template technique, but it is not fully documented)
I will definately post my method some day, but I’m not satisfied with my router template method yet. It is not easy to find a balance between all my projects.
I love it when people are creative with the finFoil output to find their own building techniques.
Hi Hans, I set the exp profile constant to 6. I’ll try 7 with the main fins, thanks. What materials are you making your fins from? Are you handfoiling them or are you using a CNC?
Hi ghostshaper,
Looks good! If you would like the tip to be thicker, you can increase the exponential profile constant. I found 7 to be a good value (finFoil defaults to 5).
If you are somewhat familiar with CAD software, you can already create nice 3D models for CNC machines with the finFoil output.
Josh Peay sent me the following pictures:
Thanks Josh for the pictures!
my attempt at a twinzer canard fin on your Finfoil program (thanks, btw). I can’t wait for it to get to the point where you can add tabs and send it to a CNC (can’t foil to save my life).
Apparently I still haven’t made my point that a good fin profile is important.
Made with Blending Curves 18 - 5".
I had A Zebrawood fin that warped and was too thin to foil the wood anyway.
I sandwiched it between 2 pieces of waxed glass , several layers of 7.5 oz cloth, under some weight. It came out flat, but the wood pushed some bubbles into the glass, and the 7.5 oz cloth obscured the clarity.
After foiling it,
I gave it a carbon fiber Halo and then covered it with 2 more layers of 4 oz on each side, then foiled those, then many many thin hot coats.
All Epoxy. I’ve never bothered to polish it, and it is still kind of rough to the touch
The fin has a nice flex pattern, one of the nicest I have made, and backside bottom turns on the single fin i made it for give me a projection and a twang I am not used to from single fins.
Wow the grain looks awsome. Moisture will make timber move as can the tree growing on a hill it pre tensions it the log looks straight then as you mill it the boards pop out.
Reverse D template: Height: 8 3/4’’ Base: 10’’ Chord: 3/8’'. Bookmatched Koa. Glassing: 2x Cheater coat of Laminating resin reduced with Styrene. 2x 6oz E glass.
This piece Koa took on a life of it’s own once it is resawn from the original stock. There was some cupping and minor twisting after being resawn. I’m not sure if other people are experiencing this too. I am assuming it is a couple of things such as moisture content (this was supposed to be older Koa), how it was sawn (flat vs. quarter) and in this case I am not sure how it was sawn, and wood curl. Other pieces of Koa I have cut never changed.
I am sure there are some wood experts that will know and advise is appreciated.
Dave
