he RODE the hell out that board! for sure for sure. lets see that aggro > cripple “pump” his bad ol self across the dead flats of a choppy > 2’-3’ burger like Kelly Slater!!! sorry but it aint the same thang without > the lower body an legs free to act as powerful steel springs. If he was > doing what you said, then it was more the shape an power of th e wave than > him bobbing his butt up and down on his quadilliac. thats no biggie cause > spongers been doing that “pumping” kind of crap for years an > they also try to say its the same thing. cold hard factz for all who cant > stand it: BELLIES AND KNEES AINT GENERATORS.>>> “its whatever you think it is”, what a crock of bubble headed > new age B.S. Here
s a suggestion thats REAL: give them ALL a fair try… including my surfmats! There`s pros and cons in everything; you can choose to experience many different sources. In order to grow as a person, sometimes “unlearning” is just as important as learning. Learn to be still… Dale
Ryan, at one point, I built and tested hybrid fish/flex spoons: a slightly > narrower and pulled-in, deep swallow, a concave deck with tuned flex in > the last 1/3 of the board, soft and thin, just enough flotation to paddle > and rest when necessary, twin keel fins with the wide bases only glassed > to the board in the front 25%… resulting in improved sensitivity and > performance over a wider range than my conventional (solid foam and glass) > fish shapes. Still, there were plenty of questions/problems to work > through.>>> No matter what you choose to ride, it
s always wisest to create whatever > works and feels best for you in your waves. If you follow that course, > rest assured youre moving the same direction as George.>>> Dale Thanks Dale. I understand that ultimately what I do should be what works for me and not what others think is “right.” I am young and have a lot to learn. I will do my research on what others do and have done, and incorporate these ideas into my own. Guys like you and George provide tremendous inspiration for fellows like myself. Much thanks to everyone in Swaylocks who contribute. Open your mind and your surfcraft quiver will follow!
im thinking of having a go at kneeboarding, making a thick little doormat with a single fin just for occasional pointbreak surfs. because im such a stylish longboarder as it is, everyone better remember my name cause you going to see me in the surfers journal soon, as the heir to the throne of george. i will blow the kneeboarding world off the face of the earth and will have the opprotunity to travel the world as a freesurfer showing the kneelos how its done.
Even if you think kneeboards and paipos and such are for kooks, there is one thing for certain - you can sure get deep.