This may be common knowledge. I found a replacement trigger for Skil 100 in my spare parts. I purchased many years ago as a spare. Now I need it. It is a prefect fit (even has the insulating jacket) except it has a trigger lock. To use the lock, it will be necessary to drill hole in handle cover to accommodate the lock. Also looks like you could simply remove the lock with no modifications to the handle. I like the idea if a trigger lock. At my old age it is sometimes an effort to keep trigger down. One of the first tips from Jim P was to keep your planer running. Nothing kills a motor quicker than constant on-off cycles. Any experience with a trigger lock?
The switch number is 14818-00. If you google this number you will find multiple vendors of this switch or a replacement. Most state for DeWalt and BD.
Forget the trigger lock. Just a pain in the a$$ and something else to think about. Therefore breaking your concentration. When you drill the hole you will have shot yourself in the foot as far as the value of the planer goes.
I will be replacing the switch in my 676. It is a very used planer. The front shoe and foot have been repaired. The armature shaft has some damage (looks like someone had trouble removing the bearing). The armature has significant wear. I am not worried about value.
Just cut the trigger lock off with a wire cutter. One of the problems with the tool is that it clogs with foam when you go too fast, and with skill someone familiar with the signs can trigger a blast that sometimes unloads the clog before you have to either dig or blow out the clogged dust shoot.
Seriously, you really don’t want a trigger lock. I have used all kinds of power tools over my fairly long life. Skil Saws, sanders before they had speed dials and ran at 3500 rpm, jig saws, belt sanders etc. The average shaper(especially backyarders) will never wear out or burn up a motor using the on/off switch. Skil Planers were originally designed as an “edge planer. Intended to be used with the supplied fence primarily to plane door edges. The average door is 6’ or 7’ in length. Each pass is made independently. Lucky for us Foam is not the heavy load like Balsa or Redwood. The old guys used up a few motors and a lot of blades shaping those wooden logs. A trigger lock is a good way to cut something (flesh or foam) you never intended to cut. Keep the trigger blown out with air and lubricated. Pete informed me awhile back that he couldn’t get the replacement triggers he had been using. Don’t know if he found a substitute. He is still working on planers, so maybe.
I went through the the same thing with the length of my base when I cut it off. I had seen a few guys with really short bases. Cut way up past the handle. I remember thinking to myself; should I cut the base even more. I have always cut the base off at the rear of the handle. I have never had any problem using it at that length. I have an established process that I use for rockered noses. Lots of guys never cut the base at all. So if it works don’t fix it.
It’s debatable as to whether or not running a power tool for 5,10, 20 or 30 minutes without stoping is “babying”. I would think continuous running under load could lead to overheating. Which would lead to bearing replacement. I just don’t see how anyone could think that continuous running could lead to anything but overheating.
