You don’t want a lockable trigger on any planer that you are using an a surfboard blank. Just another distraction. How about an overall pic? Brushes should be easy. Doesn’t look like a version of Skil to me. Blades can be removed and sharpened. The corners on the base can be filed. A longer cord installed. You may have to do a little comparison shopping to find the brushes. Would like to see what the front shoe and depth adjustment mechanism look like. Start with a good cleaning and those things.
I am quite sure it’s a Skil. I ve added a few more pics. Could n t find the correct brushes so I ve filled down two brushes that are really close in size. Works but is a bit sparky.
thing that bothers me is that I can t access the motor. I ve poked a screwdriver in but the cover is pretty stuck.
Someone will chime in here sooner or later with more knowledge than me. Yes it’s a Skil. Assuming it’s the Euro version 240 volt. I have seen brushes and blades for sale on EBay. Don’t know what the difference (if there is any) would be in the brushes. Do an Archive search here at Sways.
Skil had a factory in Holland in the 1960-70’s, then it became part of Bosch, now it’s probably something else since Bosch sold Skil a couple of years ago. The H version is a hybrid designed at that factory using some of the US 100 version parts (cutter head, modified base plate, shoe, lever, knob). For the brush replacements, measure the cross-section of the carbon and estimate 25% longer for the length; also the spring length. Try and match up ithe whatever is available in the EU or here: Eurton Electric Online Store: Brushes.
Attached is the parts diagram for the H version and be aware that threads on the cutter and motor are left-hand.
The reason you can’t get that cover off is due to the press-fit of the bearing. First remove the brushes. Working from the end with the sprocket, remove that big hex head thing then the sprocket; hold the sprocket with channel locks. I don’t know if it is a lefthand thread or not. If the motor turns clockwise (facing the nut) it’s lefthand, if counterclockwise it’s righthand. Once both are off, use a flat punch and tap the motor shaft until something separates. This could be anything depending on how tight the bearings are pressed or if something else is stuck. Hopefully, the inner housing with the motor will come out with that cover plate still on. Or, the inner housing may stay and just the motor and cover will come out. If the inner housing came out, then tap the motor shaft (use a block of wood if enough shaft is exposed) and the armature with the cover should come out. The rear motor bearing is pressed in the cover plate, so you’ll have to carefully pry off the cover using two flat screwdrivers. You’re on your own removing the bearings, they may be stuck to the motor shafts or in the housing and cover. I’m assuming you’re in the EU, so maybe a machine shop (even an automotive one) can get them off. In any case, don’t reuse them; you’ve went this far so get new ones. Then go back to the machine shop and see if they can install them. They are always pressed in the housings, not the shaft. Make sure the bearings are sealed and not just shielded. Good luck, this is major work.