skil 190 planer?..

what is the difference between the 190 and the 100?



why didnt i see that coming :slight_smile:

I hadn’t heard of the 190, but… strikes me as what you’re looking at. Prolly a skosh heavier than the 100, better looking tool, older model I’d expect, with better polishing and general fit and finish than the 100s. You see similar differences ( gawd, what a phrase) between some of the older polished power tools and the newer painted versions: in my far from humble opinion the older ones are better.

You might find that the cutterhead and blades are a little different than on the 100, but adaptable. That’d be my only lookout if you wanted to fit, say, one of the abrasive cylinders to it.

Pete C and Cleanlines would prolly know more than I would.

hope that’s of use


I’ve heard about these, but never really saw one in detail like the e-bay photos. Polished tools with fabric power cords from the 50’s; it may have belonged to Ward Cleaver. Buy it if you can get it less than $150. Find out what it would cost to get the armature rewound and new field coils, that’s the worse case repair scenario. If parts are interchangeable with the 100, I can get you everything else. BTW, Skil is no longer selling the belts or switches (just exisiting inventory). For those of you that got 100 parts from Sherman Tool, Carlos sold the biz and the new name is G-Sherman E.C. (Eddie Castillo); same place and phone.

They are all pretty much the same machine with minor variations in motor amperage and bracing on the back of the soles.I think you can still buy belts,blades,triggers etc. from Fiberglass Hawaii.All of these motors can be rebuilt.Bearings are standard and you can get em at most bearing shops.Brushes are no problem except for the threaded screw caps,you can make off the rack brushes work by using a dowel to hold them in.I like the old style triggers that “snap” nicely.You can rob these off of old Aluminum Skil brand saws and belt sanders that are cheap at pawn can also rob brushes and screws from these old machines.A fellow Swaylocks Shaper told me that these new front shoes on the market are unreal.Supposedly they have extra rocker in the front that works great.I am going to try one.There is a link in the classified section. RB

I make the replacement shoes. Send me a PM, I’ve only got about two left. On the metal triggers, I’ve had some shorting problems with them. The ones like Sherman has are really old (although never used) and the wire insulation had a lot of micro cracks. I changed to a plastic trigger that’s used on Milwalkee’s which fits exactly and still has good snap.

hi i am new in the forum i am hobby from Morocco but living in Germany , i would like to thank you for this forum it really nice:

my question, i have just bought the skil 190 planer ( 220V) it looks so similar to skil 100

the problem I have there is crack the red place on photo is it possible to weld it ?

I observed also that the front base has rocker increasing along the base is that normal how far it will influence the cutting depth and quality

Thanks so much

I think you will find that this is the international version of the Skil 100. Many manufacturers assigned a new model number to their units for international sale. As for as the crack in the side of the case, it can be heli-arc aluminum welded as the material is cast aluminum. The crack needs to ground out a little first with a Dremel tool or the like. Look like a good tool.

Hi Charatan, I’ve seen lots of Skil 100’s that are cracked in the same way as yours. This is a flex point, and it needs to be welded with the everything assembled to keep the alignment on the cutter head shaft straight. If not, the front and back bearing housings will not align. Most welding repairs don’t last (especially at the flex points if you drop it a lot) due the porosity of the aluminum/zinc alloy that was used. Give it a try and see if it holds.


thanks everybody, i will weld it and hope it will hold

thanks again

here is the skil 190 planer !

Hi. Be sure to tell the welder that there is a steel bearing insert in the bearing cavity, at least there is in the Skil 100s I have worked on.