Skil 190 // Tips for restoring // Bearing removal probs....etc

Hey guys, 

Was lucky enough to score this Skil 190 over the weekend. It is in great running condition but in need of a little TLC and I want to restore it. As you can see I got it mostly apart but when i was taking the armature out the bearing on the inside stayed on the inside.(See pic) I was wondering if any of you guys have any tips on getting it out? Same with the other side. I am unsure of how to remove the bearing without damaging the fan? 

Also, if anyone knows the bearings used in these babies? I searched for my answers on the site already but there is so much on here I might have overlooked or missed it. I know some places sell bearings and certain parts but I would like to find them(bearnigs) on my own. Might be cheaper that way and maybe even a better quality bearing. Also, any useful tips and info for parts and whatever you guys might have pertaining to assembly/care/restoration will seriously be appreciated! Love this site.

Thanks Guys


Congrats on the planer, and nice pics of the pieces too. Hopefully the pros will add their thoughts.

Parts list from Rand, brushes might be #422 instead of #722



Paging Pete C…

Please pack up all the pieces, and send them to PeteC, the resident expert on all things SKIL.      Don’t be lured by the false economy of DIY, when it comes to your planer.        These machines deserve the best possible care.      Pete is the BEST.       He’s my go to guy.

I was literally just about to send him a message and decided to check this post. I’m thinking he’s the absolute best choice. As much as I live doing things myself I would rather have it done with no doubt it’ll be right. I need bearings anyway and it certainly needs a polish. I’ve been doing it by hand but think my mind is made up about sending it to Pete and having a pristine good working machine when I get it back. Thanks guys

Thanks Bill for the kind words.  There’s a lot of specialized tools needed for the Skil and without them it’s prying stuff off with screwdrivers and beating with a hammer.  Seen a lot that have been worked on this way.   It took me over 20 years to really understand all the fine details involved in getting Skil’s tuned properly for shaping.  After restoring and repairing hundreds, I’m still learning new things about them.

190, 676, and 100’s with no type number have THE best motors that Skil made in the whole series.  98% of these models I’ve seen draw the same current as when brand new (about 2.5 amps).  They were made when the tooling was new and the materials of that era were very pure, especially the copper used on the motor windings.  Most are now over 60 years old and will no doubt last another 60+.   So if you are fortunate enough to have one of these models, it’s certainly not a project to learn on.  

Very funny you say that because it’s a 190 and when I did the amperage test it peaked at about 3.5 when I pulled trigger and then ran at exactly what you just said, 2.5. 2 even sometimes. So I’m really glad to hear I got one that’s working great. Makes me feel that much better about the purchase!