skil 190

I realize that $330 or so is very expensive for a modification

of a planer that you already have that same amount (or more

as in my case) invested in the tool itelf.

I like the spiral better that the straight cutter type in that it is

always removing foam and if I go really fast I don’t get “chatter”

marks on the blank. They also seem to cut better on the

back pass (to remove bumps).

You shouldn’t have to worry about voltage, most house current

or garage current will vary from 110v to higher anyway. Amperage

is more important in that is what is measured in terms of the amount

of work a motor can do.

I have not had a problem with either my Skil or my Hitachi heating

up with a spiral bit and an exhaust system even on full cuts on large


I would follow the advice and not use it for balsa boards. I have

only shaped a couple and have used my blade Hitachi on both (carbide).

I think that my spirals should last my backyard career and eliminate

all the time I used to spend in adjusting/replacing blades.

I would need to look at the insides to see what 100 parts are interchangeable with 190. Skil stopped producing replacement belts about 2 years ago, the only ones that are left are those in inventory at some tool repair places (I bought the remaining stock from Skil, and those are all gone). Send me a PM and we’ll schedule a time, I’m in Carlsbad/Encinitas once or twice a week. Be aware that older tools like the 190 used fabric and varnish for electrical insulation, even on wires. This can disintegrate when exposed to operating temperature or vibration after 50 or so years so be careful.

Thanks Ray for the recommendation.

Thanks Pete! I just e-mailed you.

Thanks to ALL who have come forward with helpful information.


I’ve rebuilt guitar amps and electric guitars as well as re-wiring and resoldering. Should I just open her up and rewire her with some good heavy gauge insulated wire?