i have a skil model 190, 5.5 amp, look like a skil 100 but older.
is anyone know about that model?
I just bought a Skil 190 for $250 on e-bay. I need to find a belt for it, and I need to make a knob for it. I e-mailed Fiberglass Hawaii and searched for Sherman Tool, but haven’t had any luck. anyone know where I can at least find a belt and some blades?
Dave
Skil manufactured model 676, 190, and 100. I think in this order. All basically the same design. I have minimal info on 676. The 190 was manufactured as a type 1 and type 2. The type 1 was last manufactured late 1954/early 1955, and type 2 mid 1955. The model 100 was manufactured as type 1-4, 4A, and 5. Part numbers were changed after type 2. Type 1 was last manufactured early 1955 and type 2 late 1962. Type 3,4, 4A and 5 are essentially identical, with the exception of the thin (I think disposable; razor blade type) on the 4A and 5. Some model 100s were 7.5 amp vs 5.5. Don’t know when this happened. I have seen 5.5 and 7.5 amp model 100 type 4. I would like to know if any type 1-3 were 7.5 amp.
I know this is more than you wanted. These planers were a work of art.
Howzit Kawika, Has F.H. gotten back to you? I have ordered belts from them in the past and they always had them in stock.Aloha,Kokua
Damn… someone did their homework!
Kokua, still waiting to hear from the crew at SH. I’m sure they are busy. I’m not worried, a belt will turn up somewhere, and I can always have my blades resharpened. As for the knob, I’m just going to make a new one out of some tail block material I have, you know, redwood, balsa, zebrawood, glued up real nice… more character that way too… that’ll go beyond a plastic black knob any day!
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Item SpecificsTool Kind : Power Tool You are bidding on a Skil 190/100 Surfboard Shaper/Planer/Plane 5.5 Amp. Just like the Skil 100. This planer is old but still in good shape, the motor is in good working condition, it is missing the knob that goes on the front and it need the belt. $25.00 Shipping.
On Nov-06-07 at 09:02:51 PST, seller added the following information:
I forgot to mention, it needs new blades.
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[/url]Questions from other membersQuestion & AnswerAnswered OnQ: does the cord need to be replaced also? (it looks frayed near the blue tape in the picture) thanks.Nov-08-07A: You do not have to change the cord, it works good, but you might replce it soon.Ask seller a question [/url]Shipping and handlingShips toUnited States
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Should I keep the planing base long on the Skil 190 or cut it off like others I’ve seen out there?
I just figured I’d keep it long, and if I needed something shorter I could go in with the Clark Foam Modified Hitachi Planer I bought in the 80’s.
I’ve been using the Clark faithfully since I bought it, although the knob sucks on it (wobbles), and it’s hard to know how deep it’s set at with no markings… not to mention it is very light.
I’ve been searching for a Skil 100 for 7 years now, but either couldn’t afford it, or was out bid… now that I have this Skil 190, I think my search is over. I plan to polish this baby up, have her rebuilt or re-worked eventually, and use her faithfully on all my shapes into the future.
Any tips on where I would send her for a re-build?
One of the best investments I ever made was getting a
barrel grinder (vrs blades) for my Skil. The smoothness of
the cut on really hard foam (not US Blanks but the other stuff)
really pays off and the lack of tear outs really helps on cutting
down the hand shaping. Also, the time you have to take to
set the blades, test, retighten the screws, test again, etc.
also pays off.
I have always believed that if you spend money on good tools,
it always pays off. My 2C.
What do those cost?
A spiral cutter is around $300 or so from FoamEZ and
I personally know that they have one in stock which
would fit a Skil 100. I don’t know if the bearings are
the same on yours, get a pair of calipers and measure
the od & id of the bearings and email Brad (or one of
the guys) and I’m sure they could set u up.
I’ll try to attach the link below.
I’ve seen an aussie style of cutter that is a bit cheaper
but haven’t been able to make a connection. Maybe
some of the guys will “chip” in here!
Here’s the link:
http://www.foamez.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_25&products_id=510
Thanks… a bit on the pricey side, but I know you said they are worth it.
Also, do I need to convert the 115V to a modern voltage?
There’s a guy named PeteC who logs on here from time to time. He can help you out with your rebuild. I’m pretty sure he does ding repairs for Infinity and D. Webber. He’s in Dana point…
The link to that “aussie barrel” is:
www.shapersaustralia.com
Hey surfteach,
I have been considering purchasing a barrel for some time for my 5.5 amp Skil. Recently, I heard the the barrel increases the work/strain of the motor due to the increased cutting resistenace. I have also heard that some have burned out 5.5 amp motors by shaping alot of balsa. Seems like a similar issue. My expericience with a 7.5 amp Skil displays significantly more torque when you pull the trigger. I wonder if this directly translates into less chance of burn-out. As a backyard builder, I can’t justify the expense of a barrel, however, I don’t need much to convince me to buy a new tool. This is probably overly analytical, but, any thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Tim
Aloha hoggatg:
I have a couple of the barrels in both a 5.5 and 7.5 amp Skil planers. I have not noticed any undue load on either of the motors. They run a lot smoother and quieter than the regular blades and they cut really well. They do however run a little bit hotter, but once I installed a vacuum system that went away!
My barrels are from Shapers Australia.
There is absolutely no way I would use the barrel to shape a balsa board though. I shape a lot of balsa and I would not put any of my barrels anywhere near balsa. The reason being that balsa is very stringy and it would simply just plug up the carbide teeth on the barrel. So for balsa I have a Skil with regular blades.
For shaping foam or EPS I would never go back to a blade after using a barrel. One of the main reason is that with a barrel you could literally run up and down the board without tearing the foam. It really is a worthwhile investment.
-Robin
Aloha Kawika:
I would certainly recommend cutting down the base, it really makes the planer a lot more useful for shaping boards.
BTW, if you still have not found a belt send me a PM and I might able to help you out. I have 6 Skil planers and one of them I use for parts, so I might be willing to sell you the belt that is in pretty good shape. In fact, I could also part with the knob on the parts planer if needed. I do have a bunch of brand new belts but I’m reluctant to part with them!
-Robin
I just PM’d you regarding your offer.
Thanks!
Robin,
Is there a difference between the spiral coated drums and the full coated drums? I have a Rockwell 653 with the spical cutter and it gives an exceptionally smooth cut. Not sure if the same translates to the barrels. I still have not mastered using that beast as a primary shaper. I sometimes use to skin the bottoms or hog out some balsa. Thanks for the info.
Tim
Aloha hoggatg:
I have not personally tried the spiral barrels yet, but my guess would be that they will work really well because one of the problems you can run into with the barrel is that when you are cutting something like the stringer it can get backed up with material. The way the spiral is setup it helps move the waste to the edges of the barrel, so I think it will work better than the normal full barrels.
Because I use a vacuum system I don’t have the problem with getting the waste removed.
Those spiral barrels are a little expensive compared to normal barrels.
-Robin