Hey so after months of looking I scored 2 7.5 amps both in good running condition along with a 5.5 amp that is beat(it was a package deal with one of the 7.5 amps) and I may just use for parts down the road. Any way I’m in my senior year of a B.S. In electrical engineering and for my power systems class I have to do a rebuild/technical report on an AC motor. Since I have the Skil in hand I will be refurbishing this, which is sweet because I can get the school to foot the bill for some of my parts and I will get credit for it! Here are some pics of the 7.5 that I will be working with. I believe it’s a type 5 which is cool I thought type 4 was the last to be made.
so because I have a hard deadline with class I’m going to focus on all the internal first then worry about polish and repaint or maybe buff to get a polished aluminum look. Here is a rough outline for the rebuild feel free to comment or add tips/ideas on something I’ve missed. 1. Bench test motor (did when I bought but as part of the report). 2. Disassemble 3. Clean winding with dielectric spray. 4. Remove and replace bearings (what’s a good manufacturer you trust)? 5. Replace any wear parts (brushes/belt if needed). 6. Rewire trigger. 7. Check all mechanical parts in the drive and front shoe. 8. Reassemble. 9. (Polish before reassemble if time allows) 10. Rebench test to be safe.
I can’t offer any help but thanks for sharing, I will watch with great interest…
search by “type 5” and read up, but especially read PeteC’s posts. Here’s a typical one of Pete’s from a couple years ago…factual and helpful…
“This is a Skil 100 Type 5, last model they made. Same as all the others except: Different motor housing (rear motor bearing), blades/cutter head. Everything is interchangeable with other Skil’s if using the complete cutter assembly or complete motor housing unit. You can get new type 5 blades from American National Knife (tell them the ones with the grooves not slots) and I have a set of carriers for sale (PM me). Run it and measure the current, if 3.5 - 4.0 amps it’s OK, 3.0 - 3.5 real good, 2.7 - 3.0 like new. If over 4 amps, part it out. Unfortunately, the newer the Skil the crappier the motors were.”
Awesome on the like new part I was reading like 2.6 on the current
I don’t have specific part numbers but once you get the bearings out it is possible to obtain replacements based on I.D., O.D. width, sealed vs non-sealed, etc.
Same thing with brushes.
I.E. you can find generic replacements if you’re unable to source name brand model specific parts. SKF is a bearing brand that comes to mind.
Search for Skil 100 posts by ‘Rand’ and you’ll find some Skil 100 parts numbers.
PS- Don’t spray the windings unless PeteC says so.
Thanks guys the first thing I need to do is get a new screw for the bottom of the front shoe the head is stripped. Luckily we have a good fasteners shop two towns over
Good. What is the Type on the 5.5.
You won’t find one. You’ll have to make it out of a piece of “all-thread”. That is provided you can get the old one out.
I am gonna drill and tap to get the old one out I applied a small amount of penetrating lube tonight will try tomorrow
Welcome to my world; stripped threads, broken shafts, parts so stuck they seem to be welded on, other parts that you’ll have to make or buy more Skil’s for salvage.
2.6 amps seems very low for running current on a Type 5, better check that the belt is connected and you have a cord that’s at least 15’ attached. The 4.0 amp limit is the current without load on a fully assembled Skil.
As this is a Type 5, be very careful of the blade system. If you don’t know how to adjust and tighten these, please email me.
It takes a lot of chanting to reincarnate dead and buried ones like this.
Again Pete your work is amazing thank you for posting
And the work begins this thing has only seen wood that’s clear when taking it apart. The bearings are all stuck on so I’ll have to lightly heat up to remove them later.
All bearings are removed and I’ve started sanding the outer housing. I’m up to 400 grit I’ll go to 1000 then polish. In the mean time I need to order new bearings.
Does anyone have reliable sources for bearings?
Suggestion:
remove skil metal label to operate better with sandpaper and polish with a small hammer from inside motor housing.
Question:
do you know the exact technical name and misurement of this planer’s screws? Maybe 3/16 x 1/2???
I’m sorry for stupid question but I am italian and we use only metric screws…
Thank you
Jcyr-
Your project looks great. Search the forum, the part numbers and suppliers for the bearings are listed. I have not bought any myself to give a personal recommendation.
Why_not-
SAE screws under 1/4" are by a number system. The Skil uses several head types.
Google ‘screw head types’ to see common head types. I added a link below for more information.
For example, the screws for the guard are (by measuring and comparing to pictures and charts) SAE 10-24 (UNC) x .375" x Fillister (cheesehead).
EDIT corrected size based on information from:
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Machine-Screws/Default.aspx
Was able to remove the carbon on the armature from the brushes. Bearings, blades, and brushes are on their way. Also worked up to 800grit on the motor housing.
