Hello,
just curious about the chute styles in the picture. Are they both original Skil? Would they both been provided when bought new? Was there intended, different uses for each?
Also in picture no. 2, are these related acccessories. I believe the thin bar is barrel removing tool. The others maybe unrelated.
Thanks,
Herb
Both chutes are Skil. I’m sure others who know more will chime in here and give you a history. After owning probably 10 or 15 Skils thru the years, it has been my experience that the taller, larger chute is usually found on the 7.5 amp Skils and the smaller 1/2 size chute is usually associated with the 5 amp. I don’t know if there is any particular reasoning behind the two chutes. It’s my assumption that the size of the chute evolved over the manufacture life of the Skil 100. At some point and time some engineer at Skil determined that a larger chute was needed.
The U shaped metal plate is a gauge used to set the blades. It is screwed to the base with the tabs hanging out over the cutter/blades. It is a feeler type gauge. Blades are adjusted to the point that they barely touch the gauge when the cutter/blade assembly is rotated. That is the only item in your pic that I have used. Forget what the tri shaped plate is for. Removing the cutter head requires removal of the front shoe. Not difficult to do.
The short deflector was the original and introduced with the planer in 1952. The taller one that diverts more material was introduced in about 1960 (Type2). Both were included for several years when you bought the kit for the duration of the Type3. It appears the short one was pretty much fazed out when Type4 were introduced in 1970.
If you post a picture of your badge and I’ll enter the planer into the database.
Thanks Gents - I’ll post a few pictures this weekend and make sure to include the badge. First time owner of a Skil 100 and to be clear, my capabilities are nowhere near its match for potential. However, owning one has been a desire for a long time. I have no fantasy it’s gonna help me become a better shaper overnight, but have no doubt it’s history will put more soul into every outcome.
The planer came from a gentleman’s daughter, who has been left with the hard task of dispositioning her father’s collection of tools. I’ve become the fortunate caretaker of this one until the next person’s turn when mine runs out. The daughter and I exchanged some lengthy details about her father, what my plans are for the planer, and a little about myself. It is my understanding her father was the original owner and never used it to make a surfboard. She was fascinated with our obsession with the sport and tools. One of her notes will always be in its box alongside the planer.
I’ll probably have some more questions about it, that have been covered many times here, so bear with me. It’s already more than just a tool in the garage and respecting it is important to me.
Thanks,
Herb
Improvements that make it more surfboard oriented are 16’ cord, shortening the base and ridding the depth index or “clicker” so that the depth adjustment is free flow. PM me and I can walk you thru those improvements. Pete does an RnR that includes bearings,brushes and blades(replaced or sharpened) base shortened, clicker removed, 16’ cord, bead blast and repaint, hard edges filed on base etc. very reasonable.
Gene,
Please see the attached.
HerbB; The triangle is an angle gauge for setting the planer fence. I don’t see one in your pictures. It is long and black with two silver or black arms. Four screws hold it to the side of the planer to cut perfect 90’s on doors. If it was not in the case, ask if you can look around for it. Also, I’m attaching a pdf of one of the owners manual. Your long flat tool and little wrench are to be used in place of the screwdriver and wrench in the pic. You never know when you might need to plane a door or two! Just my 2c…
That’s right forgot all about that. Funny because the first one I ever bought was from a Finish Carpenter/stair builder. He told me the fence was the weak part of the planer. I have one that if anybody wants it they can have for the shipping.
Thanks, I couldn’t figure out the triangle thing and now it makes sense.
Thanks,
Herb
Do you guys also know the best place to get bearings and a belt. They both seem okay, but I’m gonna just freshen them up. Should I just reach out to Pete?
Also looking for as original as I can, a replacement cord. It’s a 3 prong and maybe someone changed out to a longer / have their original around that’s they’d sell.
thanks,
Herb
PM Pete. There are bearings and belts on EBay, but I got no know idea how good of quality they may be and they are overprices. You definitely don’t want Chinese made bearings or belts. Lowel
