Made my first board last fall. 9’6", Nose rails, 1x6oz S glass top and bottom plus 3/4 5oz. carbon under on deck.
LOVED IT!! After my daughter and her boyfriend used it and let it lay in the sand (!@#$%^&*() I sat it in the sun, only for a few minutes, well it ended up being FOUR HOURS. Not too bad, only one bad delam 4"x6". It still worked OK, and I didn’t trip over it. Then last month I dumped in the beach break, came up hopped back on and as I was paddleing out noticed a crease across the nose, it moved up and down! Oops! Now it was time to correct me bad laminating.
I’ve read here (Swaylock’s) others asking about skinning and re-doing boards so here is a pictorial of how I did it. (Thanks John!)
5- Stringer line and hacksaw blade to cut with (re-inforced front 1/3 of board by cutting along rail and inserting carbon fiber then fording it over deck and bottom to adhere with deck and bottom carbon (this will be a 2x5oz. deck, 1x5oz. bottom.
10- Finished board (opaque so it’s MUCH cooler with carbon see through pin striping).
11- Carbon deck leash attachment
12- Logo
First time attempting vacuum bagging something this large. Did a carbon (bike) water bottle cage. Time was a factor, have to work fast with a board. The foam seems to be a SOLID part of the board/foam and it leaves a little texture to the surface for the hot coat (?).
Hope this helps. Any help/info for future work like this please post.
Next board will be with EPS, 10’ full carbon with full carbon rail (parabolic?) stringers.
Looking at your first post, the stripping glass part. The #3 pic. Help me here it looks like you did not remove much foam with the glass. Is this right, or does the pic just not show it?
As, I think I said, it was my first board and I have a hunch that I didn’t laminate it very well If others have skinned and had lots of foam come off then that’s it.
To answer your question… I had VERY LITTLe foam come off. There were two areas that I had to patch. I used that spray foam in a can from OSH. It worked OK. wouldn’t want to do a fiberglass (see through) board though. The foam comes out a little darker.
`i really have no idea vaccume bagging process is…but it shure does look like the stripping off the glass worked very well with your method…i tried it once ,except i did the deck and bottom first,wich came off pretty clean , and then tried to do the rails,i soon found out that could never work so it still sits with a little rail here and there…but nice job bringing your board back to life did you origionally vaccume bag it …or regular glassing?
I originally laminated it the regular way… squeegy and let it sit. But, I think, being my first board that I didn’t do a good job of letting the epoxy work in and saturate all the way to the foam so I didn’t get good adhesion. The second time around I wanted to try vacuum bagging. I tried it on something small to get the process down. With the second time arond on this board I wanted to give it a try so bagged the bottom, pulled off the bag, peel ply and breather, grinded the uneveness down then lam, bagged the deck. When laminating the deck (2 layers) I laminated one layer at a time then bagged it. As (not) before I wanted through saturation and I knew that with bagging the EXCESS epoxy would be pulled out. There’s LOTS more on this and other sites about vacuum bagging. I’m even using the peel ply on ding patches, it makes the job come out MUCH better. Try it!
Les
ps - and the extra cost of the bagging material is VERY cheep. You can’t reuse the peel ply or the breather but I used the bag both times on this board and it looks good enough to use again.
If others have skinned and had lots of foam come off then that’s it.