dims: 5-4long 13nose 18.16mid 14.25tail 2thick
Too cool Hein.
The active 3D imaging seems like good design/sales tool.
So whats that mini bonzer fin setup like?
Hello Hein,
that’s an interesting shape, a special design for high speed kiting?
Can you give us an how to build picture show of your techniques?
You gave us some sneak previews and you’ve got me turn on…
Thanks, Soul
Quote:
Too cool Hein.
The active 3D imaging seems like good design/sales tool.
So whats that mini bonzer fin setup like?
As a former CAD consultant guy, I like to keep abreast of what’s
new in the industry. There are lots of 3D viewers out there but
adding the capability in Acrobat reader is huge since many companies
already maintain engineering drawing databases in pdf format. It’s
one of the things that I highly recommended when implementing
new 3D engineering systems.
Don’t know about the bonzer fin setup yet. I’ll have to build it
and see how it works out. I’m hoping to work the shore break
on wave-less days with the smaller fins.
Quote:
Hello Hein,
that’s an interesting shape, a special design for high speed kiting?
Can you give us an how to build picture show of your techniques?
You gave us some sneak previews and you’ve got me turn on…
Thanks, Soul
Not for speed, really, but I hope it’s fast. This one is going onto a
bottom mold like the 6-0. Even with the 12oz biax + 4 + 2 deck it
still got depressed from jumping.
(image and description of proposed deck inlay deleted. -too wacky, read the following reply for a better strategy)
hein,
looks awesome, as usual. Question; why five instead of the quad you’ve been developing over this last season? Can you tell us what advantage you think this’ll give you? Dunno…personally, kiteboards spend so much time on the rail…can’t help but think that fifth fin, at a signficantly differemt angle of attack than the runners, is gonna be draggy.
I think you’ll find that even with the dcell, you still get foam failure…actually, especially with the d-cell; you’ll be better off with airex, or corecell; some type of linear rather than crosslinked foam. The crosslinked stuff is brittle; fails easily under compression; that’s why all the poledancers use either wood or carbon in their exterior lams, even with d-cell decks.
truth be told, I made a similar board this summer; hate the photo option feature here; shoot me a personal address, but end of story; Corecell, A500, 3mm deck, 12oz biax inside AND out, with 6 oz over that on the outside; STILL dimpled! Pissed! Slapped a couple of pieces of 2mm cedar over that and dimple problems gone. I bet even some well selected basswood, or even better (though slightly heavier), some aircraft grade 1.5mm bendy ply. Cheap, no problem with a one-shot vac process.
And if you’re really pumped on tying the fins to your stance location, try a perimeter stringer that bissects the finboxes and is capped at your stance locations with your deck reinforcement…your current thinking will still allow for a significant amount of torsional distortion under load.
looking good. yup yup.
I’m wanting to try a bunch of fin setups with and without the center one. I ride
without foot straps and use small kites so I don’t edge that much.
Reinforcing the decks with added foam or wood layers just doesn’t seem right
to me so I’m not doing the inlay. It was just an idea to throw out there. I wasn’t
really trying to add more torsional rigidity since the EPS I am using is already stiff
enough. Too stiff in fact. That got me thinking about making the core thinner.
So I’m going to try a concave deck. I modeled it on this 6-0 since I got one
in process right now. I’ll just re-machine the deck.
(image deleted, see final concave below)
I’ve read here that concave deck feels good and since the fibers are in tension
the denting may be reduced. I like that changing the geometry might lead to a
solution. The concave deck reduced the volume by about 4 liters. 22.5 to 18.6
Perimeter stringers and a cap between them does sound like a nice torsion box
structure. -Hein
Decided to make the deck concave a little deeper than the section view above.
The center is now just over 1 inch thick on the 6-0. I’m planning on updating
the 5-4 too but want to see how this turns out flex wise.
So the re-machined 6-0 I had in-process is in the bag:
bog core, bottom laminate in mold, top laminate on core, lay in mold, wrap bottom
onto top, peel ply, perf sheet, breather, seal bag and pull vac. I wish it went that
fast. It took my wife and I an hour and a half. Get to see how a resin splash under
vacuum turns out tomorrow.
Hein, this is awesome.
I thought I was the only one who dragged his wife out to help with vac evolutions!
Nah - the whole thing is cool. So, what’s the bottom schedule that got wrapped up onto the deck? Will that be the final rail schedule? Bog meaning phenolic + epoxy? With you on that, if so: light, strong, and cheap (relatively).
Can’t wait for tomorrow…
Thanks Benny,
The bottom is 4+4+1.5 all wrapped and that’s it.
Deck is 12biax+4+4+1.5 staggered but not wrapped.
I ‘bog’ the core with resin/micro balloons.
Here’s the bottom fresh off the mold with the flash
trimmed.
Not the coolest resin splash I’ve ever had come out. Definitely good
to have a strategy before you to pour. Board as shown is 4#-14oz,
needs a fill coat on the deck and paint. And laminate over the fin
boxes trimmed out.
WOW,
This is great, Hein,
The vacuum did some weird things to the colors, but it gives a wild effect!
Thanks for having us have a look in your kitchen, very inspiring.
Would love to hear how the baby rides!
Soul
Hey Hein.
The concave deck was a good choice, I’ve been reading how this deck system lowers the center of gravity of the hull, it makes sense… and the added flex under foot might be a good thing…
I like the idea of a kite board with about 1 3/8" tail rocker that increases with downward pressure…
I’m also sold on the perimeter stringer concept, especially if you’re reducing thickness under the feet, as in a concaved deck concept…
The board looks great so far, forget the bonzer concept, too many boxes stiffen up the tail, also, we don’t need 5 fins when kite-surfing… Futures are also not ideal when you’re looking for flex… That being said, I’ve got friends that want their boards built using futures…
Pro-box, or Lokbox , , these guys have the adjustability to make kite-surfboards work…
The resin “acid splash” looks cool, but remember , as you add more paint/chemicals to the epoxy resin mixture, you reduce the overall strength of the resin… Pure unadulterated resin is the strongest, IMHO
Btw; I hope you’re using core-cell as your “skin-foam”, If you’re still using D -cell, it’s time to change bud…
Keep posting pictures of your build, I’m probably more stoked on what you’re doing than anyone else here…
Cheers Kiterider… aka babslop…
The flex of the 6-0 with the concave deck feels much better than the same board with a domed deck that I built off the same mold. Same layup too. I rode that board so it will be fun to go and ride this one. Meanwhile, I’ve had a chance to update the 5-4 with the concave deck. Updated the outline a bit in the nose too. It might be a bit before I ride it so I thought I’d give the 50th percentile man a go on it:
It’s often easy to lose track of scale when designing boards in CAD. I found the man model at mcadcentral.com. It took me about an hour to get him in that surfing (with the alien) pose.
I’m not using skins on these boards. I’m hoping I can get enough durability from the laminate and the geometry of the concave deck. Only using pigments in the bottom and I’m hoping to reduce drag on the bonzer fins by using flat polycarbonate like on my twin tip kiteboards. I"ll probably use ABS strips for the boxes so they won’t be too stiff. Main fin will be in a Fins unlimited box so I can move it around.
Thanks for taking a look and Happy New Year to all.
-Hein
I still haven’t finished the 5-4 that started this thread. Working on a 4-10 for a buddy made me realize I needed to tweak the rocker a little more first so it’s on the back burner. At least the standard man got to take it for a ride.
The 4-10 will be out of a solid block of H60. Here’s a link with some step by step photos. More to come. Here’s a screen shot of the board.
A durability update on the one shot 6-0 above. (never finished any of the others in this thread)
I’ve been riding (strapless kiting) this board in waves, river swell. only ride this board and occasionally a wake skate.
landing some fairly large airs board and ride mostly with a 5m in 20-30 winds. Estimate ~100 sessions on this board.
Still solid only showing some slight denting of the concave deck and still has a solid ring to it. no mushy spots.
double post, browser lock up