…don’t lots of injuries happen in ankle to waist high surf , eh ? [that’s how I did my head in[jury] , on my birthday at lanno this year]…
Same thing here. around here it’s partly because there are so many rocks i nthe water near the shore. On bigger days they are on the inside, on smaller days the are just in your way.
A friend of mine got a nice gash at the top of his head when he decided to do a sumersault kickout an a small day. Not the best idea in knee deep water when the bottom is covered with cobblestones.
Around here, most injuries on tiny days when you’re careless, fooling around, and your guard down. 1-3’ is the most dangerous, unless it’s breaking on the outer bars, then it’s OK deep water.
knee to waist high at the biggest-spinning down the point in thigh to knee high water, sand bottom.guy gets sawed off at the knees and hits bottom.wham! walks up, says i think i am hurt.lay him down, stabilize his neck and back.no visible signs of damage.doc said if he rode to the hospital in anything other than an ambulance, ie, sitting sraright up in a car, he would have died as the nerve that controls breathing was a hair off from getting completely pinched off, in which case he would have died instantly and nothing could have been done to save him. he ended up in a huge halo structure for a longggg time.glad to say he made a full recovery and is surfing again.