small wave paddling machines

General Discussion
1

just an observation from this morning’s surf …

it was good to see some board design diversity in the lineup this morning .

A 21yo mate , Dom , was riding his 6’ x 20" chris garrett twin keel fish , I was riding my 9’ single fin mal , and another bloke out there was riding a 6’8 x 20" x 3 1/8 " [!!] McCoy ‘Nugget’ [three glassed on fins on that one ]

We got HEAPS of waves between us , while people on smaller , wafer-thin thrusters were having a very hard job of catching any .

"horses for courses " , as I have always maintained .

The takeoffs on a few waves were fast , and hollow . On others , especially as the tide filled in later , it was a slow takeoff …then followed by a dredgy [and shallow!] inside section .

fun fun fun…

“popeye” , come on down ! [you woulda LOVED it mate , lots of waist to the occassional chest high ‘bomb’ …there were DEFINATELY plenty of clean LEFTS for you to play in !]And minimal crowd , which was good. Surfed out now…

well, Pascal…maybe tomorrow , eh mate ?? …

cheers ,

ben

2
Quote:
"popeye" , come on down !

I did actually. I was there very early. (Check your email)

I struggled to catch waves too, wasn’t able to get planing quickly enough before the lip spray and dawn sun blinded me and I’d have to pull back to avoid getting pitched into the trough.

Whereas the only other guy out there caught every wave he went for on his longboard and was clearly having a good time while I was cursing under my breath.

Hmm.

3

well, there it is …

proof for the masses that I am pretty blind out in the water

you probably should have paddled up and introduced yourself …once you were about 10’ away , I would have seen you !!

were you SOUTH of me , in your favoured ‘lefthanders’ spot then , Paz ?? [that would have made you , what , probably 100 metres away from me ??

I was there from 7.45 to 11.15am …you ??

ben

4

Nope, I got out at 7:40ish, so I just missed you.