Just snapped last night on the S swell. Only 2.5 months old and my favorite board. Light and snappy describes it all too well now. It was a clean break, so is it repairable? Will it be less strong? I know it won’t ride the same due to the flex being different, but at least it is closer to the nose. Basically right in front of my front foot. Wasn’t even a big wave, just really bad positioning.
Pics attached. It’s 2 3/8 thick, so its not a super thin XTR epoxy.
If you are local to oceanside I would call javier at epoxy pro
info on the website www.epoxysurfboards.com it has repair info too.
A snapped epoxy? Why, I thought that was pert near impossible!
A snapped epoxy? Why, I thought that was pert near impossible!
don’t I wish. in fact its my first snapped board. i’ve bucked a couple, had my friend snap one of mine, but never a full snap.
i did shoot an email to Javier at Epoxy Pro, as he is the one who shaped this board for me, and am sure he will help me fix it or discount a new one. after reading the boardlady’s website, it seems as though it may ride again without much worry. $455/21 sessions on it = $21.67 a session.
Hello Surfstar101 ,
I missed it Wed but got some really good head high sets today (Thur 8-18).
I started repairing boards in my garage in 2001. I’ve learned alot in the last four years.
Any thing is fixable…weight is the problem. If you glue it back together and give it enough glass to make it strong how much weight will it gain? on the nose?
My questions to swaylockers :
How much glass would you use in each direction beyond the break. I would go aprox 18 inches each way.
What type of cut would you use for the glass ? straight, 45% angle ,staggered, same top and bottom ?
I’d insert to 16 inch pinky sized dowels halfway between the deck and the bottom butted up to the stringer that stretch 8 inches on either side of the break. With a 10 in. minimum drill bit, drill the holes at least 8 in. in on both sides same diameter of the dowel your using. Stand each half of the board up on their ends and pour semi pasty cabosil (not to thick) into all four holes. Insert dowels until resin squeezes out and dowels are seated. Now take leftover cabosil and paint the mating surfaces of the foam, then press the two pieces together tightly, set rocker and tape to rack with rocker in place. Seal joint all the way around with 2 in. tape after taking off excess cabosil. Don’t forget to pull the tape after resin gells.Let gell overnite. Clean up any rough areas with 80 grit on sander,and remove as much hotcoat as possible going 18 inches on either side of the break line, then laminate with 1 4oz on bottom and two on the deck(24 inches wide). Hotcoat. Sanding is the key here to not remove the glass around the rails yet blend in the edges with no bump. Thin gloss coat helps blend everything in. Used to charge $90 for a poly and $120 for epoxy, but too busy for those types repairs these days.
Longtime Update:
Javier repaired this board for me (almost a year ago now) and it was my main board for a while and is now relegated to backup board with my new XTR as #1. The repair came out good, with a bit of weight added, I think the board is around 6.5-7 lbs now, but the rocker stayed true and it still surfs good.
I was down south last weekend and I actually got some pictures from last Sat’s session at Lowers on this board, and thought I’d update this thread with a few of them, just to show that a snap isn’t the end for a board unless you want it to be.
Sorry for all the pictures, but maybe Chipfish will approve. Photo copyright’s of buyyourpicture.com, and I will definately be purchasing some from him - I haven’t had any decent surf pictures in about 3 years.
The board is 6’2 x 19 1/4 x 2 3/8 and I’m around 5’11 x 190 lbs (86kg for you non US-swaylockers)
