Please feel free to WATCH this , if you like .....
[ it explains it to non-surfers better than my words ever could ! ]
cheers
ben
Please feel free to WATCH this , if you like .....
[ it explains it to non-surfers better than my words ever could ! ]
cheers
ben
Because in that moment when I am moving no longer under my own power, when all peripheral vision obscures, when the only sound is the sound of the board cutting through the water, when all focus is concentrated, I am at peace. I feel life. I feel God.
Amen and amen.
Hey Tom. Good to hear from you.
I think I surf because in a previous life I was a pelican…
Why do I surf? Cuz golf bores the shit out of me… Mike
It gets me out of the house
It captured my heart as a small kid and I really never cared much about anything else, for good or ill.........
Mostly good.
Cowabunga.
Just thinking about it gives me chills, Makes my spine tingle.