I was wondering how can I do a soild pigment color to a board (top and bottom). I did some seaching in the forums and alot of the information I have come across is you should do it on the lam coat or color the foam itself but I can't find any info on coloring a board top and bottom the same. I think the way I would go about this is I would laminate the bottom first and to do a cut lap after wrapping the rails. Then laminate the top by cutting out a piece of glass that is the same size for the top where the cut lap ends. Then I would do another layer of glass on top and wrap the rails to the bottom. Pin line the cut laps to hide them. Does this make sense or is there a better or easier way to do this?
I'm also thinking I could color the spacking sealing coat on the blank (I'm using EPS and epoxy) then just laminate or I could paint the blank but I'm worried that this might not create a very strong bond with the glass.
their are a few ways to do is. you can do a cutlap on the top than a cutlap on the top again where your pinline would go, almost like a inlay. or a cutlap on deck than cutlap on bottom, this will make the rails a darker color, maybe you want that look? or you could do a cutlap than a freelap and have a messy bottom. whichever, they all work, and the board still surfs the same no matter what color it is, unless its red… sometimes red is to fast. =D, also i hate painting eps boards, they are a headache
I’ve tried resin tints and opaques on EPS. If you’re doing a multi-color abstract that’s not too bad because the the imperfections and uneven blotches are part of the look. Getting a clean single-color opaque or tint is a lot harder.
I’ve tried the colored spackle undercoat - didn’t like it and it was a PITA. What did work for me the last time I tried it was doing a single layer clear lam in light cloth to seal the blank and get the consistent surface, and then come back with a 2nd lam with the resin tint over that. I favor cutlaps with color so the overlap does get darker. Personally I always liked that.
But you could avoid the overlap if you want to by doing an insert. Lam the bottom with a cut lap, tape off the outside of the cutlap and lam the deck to overlay that lap line, trim to the “seam” with a razor. Then do another layer over that in clear. Cover the seam with a pinline. The longboard guys sometimes do this sort of glasswork because the added weight is part of the glide. I’ve done 2-color resin tints that way before, albeit not in Epoxy/Eps. I try to avoid using paints at all, although one of my kids talked me into it once.
Thanks guys, I think what I will try doing is doing a 4 oz all over the board to seal it like you said gdaddy and then another 4 oz with color on the bottom with with a cut lap then a 4 oz color inlay on top and then on the top do another clear 4 oz. So in total I'll have a 8oz bottom, and a 12 oz top. I think it will only be slightly heavier than a 6 bottom and 6+6 top.
And funny I was actually thinking of a red board, I like them fast ;)
If you’re concerned about the weight you can use lighter cloth and really watch your resin usage. I’ve been using 2.62 oz cloth and adjusting the layers to get my weights.
P.S. strain your resins, especially those with pigments and tints.
Forsure, just finished a longboard so it might be a little while before I get around to doing it, have to shape it first. I did a tint job on the longboard and it came out well but I'm trying to improve on it so I'm doing my research before I start another one!
I just do regular freelap bottom and top when I am doing an opaque pigment with EPS/Epoxy. Not my idea, Greg Loehr does the same in his glassing video. Good enough for him, so it’s good enough for me. It has worked fine for me. Laps don’t show unless you look REALLY close. I take care to measure the amount of pigment with a syringe so I have the exact same amount of pigment in the top and bottom lam. I also use the same amount of epoxy in the top and bottom lam so the pigment/epoxy ratio is the same.
But in Greg’s video it looks like he doesn’t even bother doing this. He just glops some pigment in the mix and the top and bottom came out the same color. I guess as long as it’s opaque, and you put enough in, it’ll be the same color. Just do a single 4 oz bottom and top with color first. Then do your logos or other art with a clear lam and whatever glassing schedule you want to finish with. Again, not my idea, it’s GL’s, and it has worked well for me.
Howzit Max, Listen to pico about the opaque pigments since you can just laminate both sides and there won't be any color change on the rails,that is a tint thing.If you are new toglassing I would say to wait a while and get more boards under you belt before trying tint work since it will show each and every flaw. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks lots of good points, I have a few boards under my belt, so I want to experiement more with colors in the resin. Previously all I have been doing is paint the board before the gloss coat but that takes extra time, adds weight and doesn’t have that deep rich look.
Greg Loehr's "Epoxy 101" Glassing. Pretty straight forward. Solid pigment and freelap. Remember it's solid color.. If you want a board alll one color; tape off the stringer, paint and freelap.
Yeah you threw me a little when you said you had painted under the "gloss" coat. A typical panit job is done directly on the foam and then glassed or laminated over. Sometimes guys do color work or paint on the sanded hotcoat and then either gloss over or seal with a sprayed on clear coat that is compatable with the paint that you use. Typical factory process for a painted board is direct to foam. Latex flat acrylic paint. You're likly to have more problems with paint under a gloss. Usually due to incompatable materials or sand thrus when you are doing the wet and dry/polish. Hope that helps.
Tell a person you can't do something...wait for the resopnse....
I'm a backyard guy....Pigments and titnts with EPS Epoxy......well...it's not like a poly blank....If you're willing to deal with EPS...go for it...I'm going for it with mixed results.........report back here....Painting an EPS Blank is a better option......I did this one to look like a cut lap...
Yeah I sanded the hotcoat and then did my paint work, I’ve done both urthane clear coat and a gloss coat with epoxy. This board is one with paint on the sanded hotcoat and then gloss coated, paint I used was latex acrylic paint from the hardware store. So far it has helded up really well.
