Hello, wish I woulda joined much sooner, however thanks to all of you for the amazing information, I have collected a string of articles and videos that helped me shape my first board and It turned out a lot better than I expected, due to the advice and tips I borrowed from here.
Long story short, (literally) I have been riding a longboard (9’0) and gotten very comfortable surfing it from 2ft up to 10ft on the right days with a long enough period. I can cross step although I still could get a lot better, been told by a few they were impressed with how steep of a wave I can drop in on with a long board, cutbacks, and occasionally a small floater on the 4-6ft days. I am having fun with this, especially on the larger days, but it seems the bigger and better waves I surf the more addicted I get and the more stuff I want to be able to do. I have some goals set for this year in regards to learning a short board, and I actually have one, however whenever I go back to it to try to surf it I have a hard time riding the board once actually on the wave. I know its a user issue, and not the board, but I am wondering what a good shape plan would be for a board that is a little easier to paddle than a traditional short board, A little less likely to bury a rail when turning, and fairly stable so I can get my feet under me. I guess I kind of just answered my own question, and ultimately I plan on taking this to a shaper here in oregon to get the details ironed out and a board suited for my ability, and the local waves. Any advice or suggested board shapes/models you guys can give would be much appreciated in my decision making. Thanks!
I read a few posts in the archives and I know its a totally unique formula to figure out the right board, so height, weight, and all that play a role but are not the only factors.
if its any help, I am 6’2, 180 with a suit, size 12 boot surfing fairly mooshy waves although we get the occasional walls if you go to the right break on the right day.
Where do you surf in Oregon. There are few secrets up here. You have to take into consideration the ability to “duck dive” a board here in Oregon. Doesn’t make sense to step down to a board that you still can’t duck dive. Having said that; I just shaped and glassed a 5’9" for a guy who is short and stocky. Weight was 170 minus the Rubber. It’s all about your ability. Lowel/ PC
Depends on the forecast the time of year. In the spring-fall im surfing central coast from florence to LC, and in the winter im up north. I would think a 6’6 with a slightly forward wide point and a lowered entry rocker would fit the bill, and still be duck dive-able. but thats just off of here say. Ive never actually rode something like that so I couldnt say.
If you are far enough north, go talk to Lanny Shuler in Seaside. He makes amazing boards that are dialed for the Oregon coast. Lanny is the shaper who inspired me to start making my own boards.
I understand, I have surfed a few spots that the paddle out can be challenging, (sorry for not being specific on names, but I feel its for the best for the protection of breaks) but a 9’0 paddling out into a 8ft beach break is probably a lot harder than a short board with beefed dimensions. Im not looking for an egg shape, or anything like that. I am looking for a little extra length a little width and probably same thickness on a standard short board. I am fairly certain I could duck dive a 6’6x21x2.5(or somewhere in between there and 2.75) . And when I get comfortable with that I can step down to the 6’2 I already own. I can paddle my 6’2 fine and catch waves fine, my problem lies in when im actually up. The board is too squirrely for me to control and I want something to ease me into that difference in surfing. I feel like a short stocky board would be just as if not more hard to control than the board I already own. And im about finished with a 5’9 beach beater I have been shaping this winter on my free time, so that will check that off. Its a reshape, and the first time I shaped it, it was too thick and I couldnt sink a rail so it would just slide sideways damn near down the wave when I tried to turn.
Ive seen a lot of shulers when im up north. It’s funny the difference in boards you see depending on the region being surfed. I think a board from any of the long timers here would do just fine. Ive recently been browsing Scott Rowley from NWSD and really like a few of the shapes in his gallery. The shulers might be a bit pricy for me. Can someone recommend a shaper who might be able to shape a board for less than 500, or trade some work on top? I run a commercial fishing boat so I can trade some Tuna, Salmon, or Halibut if they can wait till April.
I have built several boards that could be called a step down from a longboard, these work well for me, here’s a few pics that might hopefully inspire you, and they all cost well under 500 to make.
The first pic is an 8 foot quad, the next is a 7-2 quad, followed by an 8-4 single fin, an 8-0 quad, and a 9-0 quad / twin-single.
Try Zugh Life Surf Shop in Lincoln City. A fair offering of Boards by Local Shapers. Shuler, Russo, NME etc. I’ve got a few in there myself… Nothing over 6’2" though. Lowel
