I like this one very much. Kind of a big spongy gasket. Gives me an idea. You would be amazed at all the crazy gizmoes and doodads that are marketed to the ‘home studio’ builder as acoustic treatments. One of the best tricks I’ve ever seen was 55 gal trash barrels filled with fiberglass insulation. These were used as “bass diffusers” as bass frequencies tend to accumulate in corners and create anomalies.
…so what s happend if the bay has brick walls and thin sheet roof without ceiling
thanks
We have an acoustic test chamber where I work and it consists of soft foam with multitudes of cones and the small/pointed side facing inwards. You can scream and there is no echo. Could be worth a shot …
You’ve created a huge drum.
This subject came up several months back. I didn’t understand how sound transmission worked in a building until someone posted the dynamics of how it worked. I think if you search you can find the post.
Basically the sound waves cause the interior walls to vibrate. If the wall material is thin then there is less dampening of the vibrations and the vibrations or sound is transmitted through the wall or ceiling. Air is a poor medium for the transmission of sound waves, so if you can separate the interior wall surface from the exterior then very little to no sound will be transmitted to the outside. The example of a “sound proof room” was a room build inside of another room without any of the walls touching. The other important factor was for the room to be sealed so no sound could escape.
The fiberglass batting may not be the best material for sound dampening but it is cheap and keeps the room cool. It was a royal pain in the ass to do the ceiling with the batting and drywall but even with the A/C off on a hot 85 degree day there is an easy 10 degree difference from the non insulated rooms.
Sound dampening in the interior of the room was another matter. A good set of ear muffs is a must.
I work in the audio visual field. When we built our studio, we had no choice but to have parallel walls. The consultant had the walls stuffed with soft fiber insulation. The inner walls have a material that has ridges to help cut back on the sound reflection, we also have thick acoustic foam on the ceiling and upper walls. Then we installed heavy curtains for back drops, but they also help deaden some of the sound.
A building within a building is a great way to create a quite room. I’ve heard that is the way to make a quiet recording studio. You need to isolate the inner room from the outer room. We’ve done that for electric generators and it helps a lot, that was to keep the noise in.
That’s called an anechoic chamber. The stuff they place on the walls with all the funny geometric shapes is called diffusion. The concept is to eliminate any reflective surfaces at all frequencies. Most often used to test frequency response of transducers (speakers, microphones, etc) without interference from room acoustics.
Thanks for bring this to my attention. Could diffusers work in a shaping room to kill the noise ??
Diffusion is intended to eliminate room reflections. It is not the most effective or economical way to soundproof a space.
I found a few interesting articles on soundproofing walls and ceiling at Soundproofing Company. They talked about using a compound called Green Glue between two layer of drywall which dramaticly improves your sound isolation performance. For the ceiling they suggest decoupling them with 5/8" Drywall Furring Channel and Sound Isolation Clips such as a Whisper Clip or RSIC-1. Doing both worked killer for me, but I like to over do things a bit.
**Soundproofing Solution #5**
1. Stud wall with insulation 2. Add Sound Isolation Clips + 7/8" Drwall Furring Channel 3. Add 5/8" Drywall + Green Glue + 5/8" Drywall 4. Seal all edges with Acoustical SealantRating of: 63 STC (which is crazy high)
This solution uses all 4 Elements of Soundproofing
- Decoupling
- Absorbtion
- Mass
- Damping
Hope this helps. It worked for me.
No more complaints for me 
Sounds like the perfect building to soundproof. Create and insulate a ceiling then build and insulate false walls and a ceiling inside with a cavity between. Fixing the bottom plates of your inner walls on some foam/rubber/carpet will also help. As has been said the double wall with cavity is the best way . Another option would be to insulate and line the ceiling then strap and line with16mm gib(drywall) the brick walls with a furring channel using these clips or similar http://www.rondo.com.au/Products/tabid/105/CategoryID/10000/ProductID/10002/Default.aspx with insulation of your choice (you can often find 25mm eps for next to nothing same with old carpet) The cavity is only betwwn 25-40mm but if you are trying to make the most of a small room it makes sense and is very quick.
All of this sound proofing is a bit wasted of you have standard hollow doors with big gaps underneath and thin glass in poorly closeing windows.
Moving house soon so will be sound proofing a new workshop myself in a few months tin roof aly clading not very sound proof.Not sure what to do with the compressor I had been thinking of makeing a soundproof box in the ceiling space for it probably just ply and polyester batts a little worryed about it getting hot though.