Sound Proofing My shaping shed???????

Does anybody have any ideas or thoughts on how to add sound proofing to a shaping shed. My building is 10x14 with 9" walls. and is roughed for electrical. I am at a stand still about using plywood for the side walls and sheet rock on the visual walls. to keep down the cost. any thoughts would be great.

Rigid foam insulation with an air space between it and the exterior sheathing is your best bet.

Concrete walls would be even better.

Sorry Sammy, but you got it totally wrong!!!

Sound board at home depot is around $10.00 for a 4x8 sheet. Fiberglass batt insulation is next to nothing, $200 for the whole shed. Rigid Foam is way more expensive and a pain to work with for the desired effect.

Put R-11 fiberglass batt insulation between the studs and rafters. Screw your sound board onto the studs with 1 1/4" screws. Screw drywall onto the studs with 2" drywall screws ( it needs to penetrate through the sound board. ) If you really want Total sound proofing, use resilliant channel under the drywall, but over the sound board.

Never use rigid foam insulation to the exterior side of the wall. Water absorbtion and mold issues.

All this insulation will really help keep it comfortable when the hot sun is beating down.

For the exterior side, watch the grade of plywood you use. If you want it to last through the winter, exterior is a must. T-111 has grooves cut in it to make it look like proper siding. Primer and paint are required.

If you want it to look good and last, Hardy Plank siding is cheap and easy.

I have been told that thick carpet works well for sound deadening. Just ask any band…

Fill your walls with Foam dust.

Thanks for the input. I will take your advice on the batt and sound board. I did go with the T1-11 on the exterior to keep cost down. should i use some plywood over the sound board or drywall???

Totally Agree! Sound booard and drywall taped on the interior. Fiberglass batt insuation. T-111 on the exterior is fine. Just be sure to calk all cracks prime and paint, If you spray on the primer and paint, back roll it. That will insure that the primer is forced to bite into the raw wood. Do that and you’ve got yourself a quiet, warm or cool(depending on weather) shaping room that will last a long time. I did the same thing in my backyard years ago on the Central Coast of Calif. Worked great. Before you close it in, be sure to give lots of thought to your electrical wiring. Outlets, lights and switches. Lowel

Did you not see where I said to leave an air space between the foam and exterior sheathing?

I know more than a little about this stuff. I make my living in two fields. Home construction and audio tech. I have found so-called ‘sound board’ to be less than adequate. The best and most effective way to soundproof is to do two walls that are not coupled together at all, along with insulation and air space.

The most effective sound proofing I’ve ever employed is when we filled the walls with sand. you get what you pay for. Plus, rigid foam is one of the easiest products to work with. I don’t know how anyone could find it difficult to use.

I just finished my shaping room and went with the R-9 for the walls and R-11 batting for the ceiling. As long as I keep the windows shut the planer doesn’t make that irritating high pitched whine that it can when cutting. A tip I can give you is buy a cheap tyvek suit, use crazy amounts of talcum powder, and mask up for the batting install. If you think sanding fiberglass can be radical you won’t believe how bad the batting can be on the itch scale!

Also I heard if you use 5/8" dry wall instead of the 1/2" it is even better for sound proofing. I went with the 1/2" and it’s pretty good.

I was going to use the extra siding on the inside but the drywall is much cheaper even after I figured in the taping and texture.

Every surfer is 100% correct! Sound board from Home Cheapo + (R11 or R13) + 1/2" Drywall. All my Bays are made this way. Nice and quite.

Don’t forget the air conditioner!

Hi Sammy, sorry if I came across a little harsh.

I’ve been a licensed contractor and designer since 1989, and I’ve been working in the trades for nine years before that. I’ve built professional sound studios, and high end custom houses. I also draw the plans that I build.

Here are my problems with your design concept.

  1. Sound board should never be installed to the exterior of a structure. It will wick moisture and grow mold and cause rot.

  2. Rigid insulation under the siding won’t allow a secure attachment of the siding to the framing.

  3. How would you seperate the rigid insulation and the exterior sheathing?

  4. Filling walls with sand really isn’t realistic. You couldn’t pour it in all the way to the top. It’s really heavy to work with. It will push the drywall off the studs at the bottom.

  5. Rigid insulation is normally cut and placed between the studs. Since the cut wouldn’t be exact, spray foam would be needed. lots of problems. In the trades, the only time rigid is used is when the necessary R value can’t be accomplished within the allowed wall thickness.

Again, sorry if I first came across like a jerk! It really wasn’t my intent. I typed a little faster than my brain thinks, I had a birthday party to get to.

How about 1/8 black vinly wrap? In some of the industrial parks in Orange County there are rock bands that practice and you can’t here them from outside the building. It may be over kill however if your bay is in a residential area it mighty be the ticket?

5/8" drywall is the way to go on the interior. Cheap, and gives a smooth surface for painting and clean-up. Go with the yellow fiberglass tape and the 45 minute setting type joint compound ( the stuff that comes dry, and mixes with water ). Use topper for the coats after taping. Just like resin, apply as thin as possible, and you’ll do way less sanding.

For the batt insulation, don’t get the stuff on your skin. you pick it up and stick it in by taking a broom handle, and sticking a nail in the end like a spear. Spear it and stick it in. Dust mask is mandatory. Make sure you get the 16" wide stuff, not the 24" wide. R-11 or R-13 fit in a 2x4 wall. You can also get the batt insulation wrapped in plastic. No fibers exposed.

Hey Ding, Stay away from any plastic in the walls or ceiling, If it doesn’t breath, moisture will condense. Back in the 90’s some builder in the south tried plastic instead of builder’s paper or tyveck. Moisture condensed, and rotted the whole house. Had to tear them down.

I wouldn’t use the plastic. The musicians in the area use this 1/8" black vinly for their sound studios. They have air conditioning so I don’t know if that helps?

Plus it’s for one pacific room rather than a whole house. I can see where that would be a big mistake to do a whole house in it!

Here are my problems with your reply:

1 I never said soundboard should be applied externally

2 I didn’t say the insulation should be placed under the siding

3 I gave the example of sand as an extreme measure. I certainly wasn’t recommending that the OP do it.

4 There are many ways to install rigid insulation without the need for spray foam. if you use 1" t and g, you can simply screw the drywall over it using long screws. I’ve done it more times than I can remember. I did one project where we used two layers of 1" t and g. One layer done vertically, the other horizontally.

I have also done more than a few projects where soundproofing was required. I have worked in the building trades since 1974. I’ve been working in audio since 1967.

Most well designed recording studios actually use a double wall system, where the two walls are not coupled together.

Hey mcshapes

Good quality earphones will do the trick.



True dat. Just don’t waste your money on those over-priced “noise cancelling” pieces of junk that Bose sells.

I like Sammy’s idea. A double wall is best with an air space . Aviod making a drum w/ studs and wall board. The idea is to interupt the sound wave w/ and air space.

“double wall system, where the two walls are not coupled together.”

Yes… The way to go. Those foam noodle pool toy things can be sliced in half lengthwise and spot glued to the studs. Your drywall or ply sheets would then be screwed to the studs. The foam noodles will act as a buffer and prevent the sound waves from transmitting directly through the wall.

Old carpet padding, foam sheets, egg cartons, etc can all be used as sound insulation between the studs but having that buffer space really helps. Fiberglass batting is less effective than old carpet padding. Carpet padding can be found for free if you catch a recarpeting job in progress.