OK-the last swell(pac. coast)had a nice touch of size.However, this consistent current running from the south seemed to take the spin and umph out of most of it, not only around our neck of the woods, but even down around SD, eg, “guru ppoint”.Since about September this current has been prevalent, weakening, if not destroying swells- the waves feel lifeless, with no tension, no spin, no drive, almost as if you are in neutral.I thought it was perhaps just my equipment or area, but even folks on tri-finned shortboards were saying the same thing.Anybody else out there “feel” it??
no but the crowds at the ventura points this year and last are absurd! IOO’s of peaple out at B grade spots.Iam staying at beach breaks from now on.The pointsare so bad that the surf style’s are chopped up and basically just surfing the crowd not the wave.Time to get on a JET and…*
10-4 on that!!
Interesting. I saw Punjab Point on Monday (with Alex) and, while big was fairly mild. The swell had very little north in it so the inside section was killing everything from the peak. The swell, while about as lined up as it gets, did look kinda “slow”. Cardiff Reef was alltime and was better than PP. Went out at the cliffs that afternoon and it was odd that with the size and direction, most of the reefs were holding rather than washing out. But they “felt” pretty normal to me. The northward drift was the same as it usally is with a big west.
Been surfing Malibu… Monday felt wrong to me. People were saying how good it was but it felt weak and slow to me. Long rides but “I could’nt get me no satisfaction”. Tuesday was a little better and Wednesday was smaller and with a straight offshore wind it had tension and was really fun and fast. Thursday AM small and fair at best… a little better in the PM… Today(Friday)was consistently shoulder high with Wednesday’s winds and just kept getting better and better as the tide dropped. Light crowds and good vibe untill the mid morning crew started showing up around 9 am. It ended up being a four and one half hour epic go out… Surfdrunk, Roger
you dog!!!
Man that Big Bob goes!!!
you double dog!!!
and i live on the east coast why? is it so i never find myself in the midst of a swell and questioning its integrity? is it so i never take for granted the circular motion of a wave born far away? or is it because i havent the fortitude to pack life and make sacrifice, cut the wages and earning potential, invest in life and hapiness? the atlantic shes like the cold bitch that you dedicate your life to because youve tasted the potential and the possible, youve seen what she is capable of . she is the greasy haired skank that has seen too much action, too many men, but can still display her brilliance in the right lighting. she can humble you when she tries, and she can ignore you with silence, but the rare coincidence, that time when youve given her some distance, when the moment suits her, she will do just enough to keep you asking for more. and so it is. went swimming today, 15 minutes to get dressed in the back of a heated jeep, 6’2" frame contorting, wind howling, left the car open- cant operate the lock with a lobster claw, ocean moving sideways, 10 degree air, no one has bothered to take the water temp, footprints thru snow and into sand, intrepid bird watchers thru a windshield, testing a new handboard in slop that wont accept it. but i like the way she tastes, so we’ll try again tomorrow. ice cream and guinness is a fine way to produce the verbal milk