Southern Hemisphere Doldrums

This would have been a big one this morning south shore Oahu…

Surfline has the next 17 days 0-2 foot…bout the same at Malibu and North Shore

Guess it is time to catch up on deferred maintenance…unless someone has a better idea…




Id grab a ten foot single fin

east side time of year.

paddle to distant reefs

in the mist …

stand on the beach

where you have never been

wear a long sleeve rashguard 

in case th portugese man o’ war

lay in your path,

paddle when it’s flat be ready to dig 

when it gets big. get Trades 15k

 wind swell gets a foot bigger each day.

On the body one foot is 6’’ over head

when you lay your head down sideways.


I have never been pyramid rock

rabbit island or whats that other

kailua island?mokusumpthin…

keep your feet up …

hey you park your car

and I’ll pick you up

we drive up wind

and paddle back

and surf all the spots

in between,by the time

we are back… just like we surfed - out.

aaaaaahhhhhhhhh food then sleep.



The Rabbit in the distance from just above Makapu’u

Paddled my 10-4 out there for some fun ones a couple years ago…

I’m thinkin a swim at Waimanalo and a nap under the pines is my plan for the day.

Maybe a visit to the Moku Lua Islands off Lanikai tomorrow

Yea Ambrose…gotta take advantage of these days…all of em!!



''Oh when the shark bites,

with his teeth, Babe,

scarlet billows,

start to spread…‘’

take along a lau lau

for mano

if he stops for lunch.

being in well fed

good company

what a way to go!


ring a ding ding!

oily kroipes

lotte lenya est!


unt louie…

danka willie…ambrose