"… Back down on the lower deck, the other new arrival, Dan Malloy, was cracking open a freakishly long and wide cardboard box. The ruckus piqued Rasta’s interest, and he closed in for a better vantage. When Dan had unveiled the contents, Rasta’s eyes widened as he recognized the significance of both objects. Grabbing one of the two candy-colored, vintage-style, single-fin mini-guns shaped by Gerry Lopez, he gave it closer inspection.
“What are those all about?” Matt Ratt asked before attempting to answer his own question. “Those are, like, for big waves, huh?”
Rubbing his hands over the shiny, polished gloss coat of the red seven-two, Rasta eyeballed the rocker and rail line. “This kind of board was used by Gerry (Lopez) and some of the boys in the early to mid 70s in Hawai‘i, as well as when they were pioneering waves in this part of the world,” he explained matter-of-factly.
“They gonna work?” Matt Ratt queried.
“I’m sure they will, grommet,” Rasta confirmed. “We’re heading to a place where they should go beautifully.”
The wave that Rasta spoke of gained notoriety in the mid 90s when Sonny Miller documented Tom Curren taming freight-train-sized caverns on a micro tri-fin fish. Dan shared Rasta’s enthusiasm, and they traded thoughts about how incredibly these boards should perform at the aforementioned break.
With a blank look on his face, Matt Ratt tried to understand the reason for the fuss over such antiquated equipment. He was admittedly “over” anything retro or longboard-related, a sentiment shared among many surfers–especially those from the über-core lineups of his Santa Cruz home.
Matt Ratt only cared to ride contemporary thrusters, and why wouldn’t he? He was raised on spoon-fed messages from the media that surfing is “progressive” and performance-driven.
Thus, in conforming to that commonly held belief of what surfing really is, one must bow down to the bedrock paradigm of riding an ultra-light 6’ 2" tri-fin in almost all conditions…"
http://www.transworldsurf.com/surf/article/0,19929,672396,00.html