Spinning a blank for a noserider

Aloha:  I wanted some opinions on which blank to use for a noserider.  Ive heard of guy spinning the blank to keep the nose flat and it also maximizes the amount of kick you need for the tail.

And that sounds good, but in doing the research, it seems that the tails of the blanks are not wide enough for the nose measurements.  Any ideahs?  Mahalo for the input, foamhacker....

I made several of em. Used to order the 10’ 1" Y from Clark with the rocker reversed.  Some guys loved em others not so much.  You can make a good turning good noseriding harder to catch waves slow surfboard this way.

Yes but Ace, you were ordering “reverse” rocker, opposed to flipping the blanks around and using the nose rocker for the tail rocker. The reverse rocker is engineered to be closer to the end of the blank instead of nose rocker peaking closer to the middle.

Shroz had a “Nu’uhiwa” type of nose rider to do for Joe Arron, he got a blank from Mitch’s and flipped it around, then did the deep  dish concave, there was no  flattened area anywhere on the bottom of the board, joe brought it back and said sorry, but the board feels like I’m always paddling up hill

There are a couple of guys in the Hawaiian Islands who have been or used to do exactly that in an attempt to replicate the Nu'uhiwa.  Eventually they did some figuring and submitted there own rocker dims to improve the overall blank.  They were swapping ends with a Walker at the time.  If you are looking to shape something along those lines you would need to do some rocker comparisons in differant blanks to come up with what you are looking for.  Otherwise the best solution is to come up with your own rocker dims and order one from US Blanks or Surfblanks.

Agree with McDing

Do the work:

Look at lots of diffferent boards

Try as many as possible to see what you prefer

Get a straight edge aka rocker stick to measure board you prefer by setting level bottom up, mark at center then center stick on mark. Take measurements from nose to tail every 6".

Go online and find preferrd blank manufacturers catalog.

Access “public rockers” aleady available.

Compare to what you recorded from preferred board.

Order blank.

Get blank and shape it.

Glass it or have it glassed.

Go surf it.

Result?.. :)…:(…:j…:D…:s…:Q…:open_mouth:


Listen to the man.  Good info.  I would only add that it might serve you well to check out the rockers of various "noseriders" that are around via the beach, friends and surf shops.  Get a better idea that way of what works.  There are alot of elements that can be worked into a noserider, but you don't need all the bells and whistles to come up with something that works.  My favorite all time blank for a noserider was always the Clark 10'1 Y.  Stock rocker.  If you custom order a blank you can play with things like tail rocker/kick, nose flip etc.  But there are already stock blanks from both Surfblanks and US Blanks that are suitable and will make a great noserider.  I just got one back from my glasser that I shaped out of a Clark 9'8 S.  You might be able to find an old Clark catalogue online somewhere to do comparison with the Surfblank and US catalogues.  Just do your homework, find a suitable blank and start cuttin'.

If you could glass with epoxy you could use an EPS blank and spin it. Square on either end so the dems. dont matter. Have done it with great success. But I very probably got really lucky as I am the definition of garage hack.


If you are considering what StAugie is suggesting, be advised that U.S. Blanks will cut ANY blank in their catalog in 1.5 or 2 lb high grade fused EPS. This is what is called “sled cut” meaning you have a long rectangular blank versus a surfboard outline that could limit you. There are even regular and thick versions. Just pull up www.usblanks.com

Like McDing, I had my favorite for noseriders with Clark. For shorter ones I swore by Bruce Jones 9’4"B with a custom rocker that lower the front half and raised the back half with a slight last minute acceleration of tail rocker. It was an ‘idiot proofed’ rocker that would wheel on a dime and clock time on the nose for novices. I called it my “Ten Over Model” and it became a sure seller for Beatty Products.

Have fun.

Agreed------------- that was always my goal; to make a longboard that would turn on a dime AND noseride.    I have made longboards that would do one,  more than the other.   But have always preferred to shape something that would turn hard, noseride and tube-ride if needed.  I have always thought that one should be able to ride a longboard in surf from two to eight foot, tooby or sloppy. 

Hey guys, just wanted to say mahalo for the input....I feel like you guys have kinda led me in the right direction, most of it I knew, but Im always ready to listen to others....I know I can learn from guys who have been doing this a lot longer than I have.   Now comes the fun part....the R and D!!  I too have made longboards which turn well but the nosetime has lacked.  I want to try and shape the whole package.  Anyway, again, thank you and keep mowing the foam!!  Much peace and aloha....




I couldn’t find a post on a blank for a pig but when searching found this topic and figured I’d add on here for my question. 


I’ve shaped three pigs and on the last two, I noticed I was ending up with too much rail thickness in the front third of the board.  After scratching my head for a bit, I thought the answer must be that the template, with a 16.5 nose is cutting too far towards the stringer on a blank designed for 18, 19, or even 20" nose boards.  I’m using a 9’8"Y US Blank.  So I was thinking the pro shapers must spin the blank around to get the wide point aft, and the proper volume in the nose rails? This thread mentions “reverse rocker” and I had never heard of that.  If I order a blank with the rocker numbers reversed, spin it to cut my planshape, would I then end up with proper rail volumes at the tail and nose?  The foil on the standard blank looks pretty darn symetrical from nose to tail, save an eighth of an inch here and there.  It’s carrying it out into the rails that seems to be causing me issues - the blank is so much wider in the nose than the tail.


Any advice on what blank to use and how to order it for a pig template and rocker?  Or should I just take the stock blank and foil down the deck in the front third after shaping in my rocker?

no spinning the blank around, after the bottom lines are lain in, then re band the deck profile and drop the rail line down in the thick area to suit the profile you like. From there crown up to the stringer to get rid of the unwanted thickness


I know you are talking about flipping the blank to make a nose rider but I figured I would just show you this just for the heck of it. Also I realise that this isn’t the ideal nose rider. I had a 9-3 Y blank and I templated a pig shape to it.  I took some of the thikness out but not too much, slight concave in the front, slight rounded bottom, slight vee out the back, rails are 50/50 but fatter than I usually go.  It’s been sitting in the racks x 2 moths after hot coat because I keep looking at it knowing inside that its probably a dog.  I plan to finish it up this weekend.  As  you can see its got all kinds of colored resin shit going on and all of that has to do with my whole approach to the board, I figured might as well try as much stuff as possible and try to learn from it.  I also made the fin and I have to give props to J. Phillips here because it was his thread a long while back (2004???) that inspired me to make my own fins.  Trust me I won’t take criticism the wrong way if anyone wants to give their thoughts on this.  I’m just a dude trying to create my own surfing experience.  

That board looks awesome…

"It's been sitting in the racks x 2 moths after hot coat because I keep looking at it knowing inside that its probably a dog."

I wouldn't sell it short so soon.  Sand it, gloss it and give it a try.  It looks like a good board from here!

Thanks Jim, I was hoping you’d comment, since you seem to, ahem, shape a pretty good pig!   I think I get it now, I was on the right track but then thought maybe spinning the blank was a shortcut.


I’ve watched Master Shapers series I and II about a million times, and try to follow your steps exactly.  I’ve gotten some really good results that way on standard logs, but the pig is giving me fits!



That board is T*ts!!!  You’ve come too far to not finish it up an see how it goes.  And if it isn’t all that, riding it a few times will probably clue you in on what parts you need to adjust next time.

Hey thanks for the inspiring feedback guys. Once I get it done I'll do my dest to give a ride report.