I have done the time,and have a way to increase,speed (not just in riding,but paddling as well),to increase looseness w/o uncontrolled spin/drift,and to increase positive drive(I’m not talking about 3-5% increase but more like 30-50% increase).It can be done to existing boards of all sizes and types and with all types of fins including FCS,GLASS ONS,OfishAL,ETC.ETC.INTERESTED?P.S. It DOESNOT CHANGE THE FEEL OF YOUR BOARD,it allows your exisiting fins to utilize their maximum potential eg.SUPERCHARGED…questions??? ask away!
Ok, I give, what is it this time? Is it that fin system Layne Beachley was working on?
Yeah, I love to know as well, please explain.
Ok, I give, what is it this time? Is it that fin system Layne Beachley was > working on? No, not that I know of(Layne Beachley’s)it’s a evolved C-5 ,but much more functional.It took a complete overhaul and 3 years of my time to create the supercharger.still interested?
OK, fill us in . Personally, I’d love to hear about it, but 99% of everyone else is fricken married to the thruster. C-5 is a valid design, but nobody hopped on it.
OK, fill us in . Personally, I’d love to hear about it, but 99% of > everyone else is fricken married to the thruster. C-5 is a valid design, > but nobody hopped on it. It starts by reducing the friging carnards from what 3"by 3" to 1"by 1" then pull them back to the primary outboard fins and in tighter,they should be no more than 2 finger space from the primary fins.And half it’s base up in front of them. there’s more like templete changes etc.My newest is a tipped forward drafting teeth(carnard) very aggressive! more? ask away.
herb-- how many questions do we have to pose before you fill us in? let’s hear it!!
herb–>>> how many questions do we have to pose before you fill us in? let’s hear > it!! SORRY! it’s not suppose to be an endless maze.It’s just hard to give everyone the whole picture without getting lost myself! Check my post before this one,and tell me what it is you don’t understand or would like more in depth.90% of it is in that post,then we can get into FCS plug positioning and fins, glass ins(that’s not a type-o it is glass ins)or ons.I’m presently working on a glue on charger(carnard)the mold is just about finished.THIS WAY IT WILL BE EASY TO CONVERT ANY BOARD!HOPE THIS HELPS,HERB P.S. A in person discussion would be best and then you can see it(OR RIDE IT) for yourself.
Are the little fins parellel with the big fins? Are they canted out on the same angle also? Are the big fins set farther back to make up for the little fins riding a bit more forward? Do the big fins have less base since the little fins are adding base to the whole system?
Are the little fins parellel with the big fins? Are they canted out on the > same angle also? Are the big fins set farther back to make up for the > little fins riding a bit more forward? Do the big fins have less base > since the little fins are adding base to the whole system? > RESPONSE TO J.T.,YES!!! SOMEONE WITH SOME CONSTRUCTION QUESTIONS!!!Yes the chargers(little fin=carnards)are set with the same toe&cant,but you can toe them straighter and or cant them alittle less or a little more.THE BEST FORMULA is to keep the toe&cant the same.No the fin placement remains the same.I personally move the whole cluster up 1"inc. the center fin.No the big fins remain the same. I USE A G-3 OR YU FIN SET-UP.The chargers are a assist tool,just like in a car motor, a supercharger utilizes the motors maximum potential.IF YOU CAN FEEL THE EXTRA LITTLE FINS YOU’VE BUILT IT WRONG!! Like the Rusty C-5 when you ride them you can feel the canards and the board pivots funny,and they are ungodly stiff!!!If done correctly your board should be looser,faster,and with more positive drive,but feel like your good ol board did in the past.If this is Joel Tutor say HI to BOB O for me.
Are you gluing the fins on or routing them in?.I’ve had good luck with using a hot glue gun if the fins are small enough. You can easily take 'em off and move 'em around. If you don’t want to use the little fins you can use a standard thruster set up and cut slots in the side fins to let the water through. This eliminates cavitation which is what the little fins are really doing.
I have done the time,and have a way to increase,speed (not just in > riding,but paddling as well),to increase looseness w/o uncontrolled > spin/drift,and to increase positive drive(I’m not talking about 3-5% > increase but more like 30-50% increase).It can be done to existing boards > of all sizes and types and with all types of fins including FCS,GLASS > ONS,OfishAL,ETC.ETC.INTERESTED?P.S. It DOESNOT CHANGE THE FEEL OF YOUR > BOARD,it allows your exisiting fins to utilize their maximum potential > eg.SUPERCHARGED…questions??? ask away! Have you ever supercharged a single fin longboard? If so how?
Hey herb, this may be elementary but where do you find fins that small, i.e 1"x1". I’ve never really seen any around. Also, to get this straight; Your basically adding the two small carnards in the position you’ve mentioned to a regular thruster setup, that’s it? And as jt mentioned, is it as easy as gluing the small carnards on, do they hold well? Thanks man for the info.
Hey herb, this may be elementary but where do you find fins that small, > i.e 1"x1". I’ve never really seen any around. Also, to get this > straight; Your basically adding the two small carnards in the position > you’ve mentioned to a regular thruster setup, that’s it? And as jt > mentioned, is it as easy as gluing the small carnards on, do they hold > well? Thanks man for the info. > Good questions Ryan! first the 1"x 1"s I make, by,(1)-hand fiberglass sheets,or by (2)-my molds that I have built.You could make your own,but it’s not easy!!To build them like normal fiberglass fins,it takes as much time if not more time(darn little things)than reg. size fins to build them.That’s why the Rusty canards are $22.00 a set…whole sale!!!I currently have 3 templetes in the molded type. 2 tipped forwards,and 1 standard rake type.YES you just add them on to your thruster,2+1,twinny etc. These chargers(little fins)are made for FCS NOW,but with a little tweeking you/I could convert it to glass ons or glass ins.I do sell them,and fairly cheap for the molded ones(fcs).The glue ons are still being developed as we talk ,but it won’t be to long,hopefully,time&money are the only things that stand in my way right at this moment.As far as any problems go with what I already have developed; I DON’T HAVE ANY REAL PROBLEMS WITH THEM.
Are you gluing the fins on or routing them in?.I’ve had good luck with > using a hot glue gun if the fins are small enough. You can easily take 'em > off and move 'em around. If you don’t want to use the little fins you can > use a standard thruster set up and cut slots in the side fins to let the > water through. This eliminates cavitation which is what the little fins > are really doing. > To jt; hot melt and they don’t fall off? it might work in small waves, but how about something with some MEAT I know for a fact I would clean them off on my first wave at Macs or Nias. Slots donot work even as well I GAVE UP SLOTTED FINS 12YRS AGO!In small slow waves they helped a little(maybe 5%),but in faster,bigger waves they caused more surface drag than just regular fins.I HAVE DONE THE WORK,IN AEROSPACE WIND TUNNELS PLUGGED INTO COMPUTERS. I ALSO HAVE A PHD. PHYSICS AEROSPACE TECH. HELPING ME,AS WELL AS THE TRIDE AND TRUE TRIAL&ERROR.
TO DT; Not with standard singles,but with center fins in thrusters,I believe it can be done,Bill Fury tried it with a small fin just in front of the big one it works great if your going straight! What i’ve done is put two little fins on each side just like the same settings as my other chargers with GOOD results not great,but good.I’m sure there’s room for improvement.