I am planning to do a split color resin tint (dipped nose look) on a board I just finished shaping. I am using a UV cure poly resin and was considering splitting the laminating coat into 2 phases. 1st phase I would glass one end, like the teal tint in the attached photo. Then cure it or at least let it kick a little bit in the sun. Then pull it back inside and laminate the nose end (white opaque in the photo) and then set the whole board back out to fully cure. My intent is to have a good separation between pigments. I am OK with minimal bleed, but want it to look like the attached photo more or less. Does anyone see an issue with splitting the curing up like this? Strength or bonding issues? Or some good advice on how to keep the colors separated with a small amount of bleed?
you CAN do it your way, but the 1 shot deal is what you have there in your pic.
your way you have to make sure you get good saturation where the colors meet so you dont have a dry non saturated butt joint type effect going on.
Any input on technique for the 1 shot method? I’m sure the experinced guys have no problem doint this. Apply one color and wrap the rails, then clean the squeegee or use another and apply the 2nd color and wrap rails? Just squeegee the colors right up to each other and keep the resins from mixing, then drag most of the resin away from the “joint” and use a clean squeegee to split the line and squeegee from rail to rail? I assume this would give minimal bleed since most of the fabric would have been saturated already.
Also, I had read one comment from someone saying they put a small cut in the rail cloth to separate the colors. Not sure if this would weaken the rail at all if it was done on the top and bottom glass.
I never cut the rail cloth and I do tints like that daily.
if you want the clean line you just basically flood your squeggee and pull center to end almost like if you were digging away from a wall or something. The pic is done by pouring the darker color first setting up your line and then the white is squegeed over in a slight overlap.
Thanks for the input. Big help!
Umm your not gonna be able to lay down one color and wrap the rail and then lay another color down. All your cloth will need to be saturated to wrap the rails… unless you make a cut in the cloth on the rail where your colors meet. Ive seen it done many times but I would pass on the idea unless putting a patch or a second layer of glass down.
Just do it all at once. If its not as crisp as you want, take what you learned and use that as motivation on the next board to improve your skills.
@ Wideawake… Untrue
On more complex colorwork Ill do the colors and wraps in stages at different times. You just have to use your glove or pour resin onto the squegee and saturate the tucked, but dry cloth. No cuts.
The board in this pic was done each color seperately laps tucked and gelled before the next step done even the tiny green patch in the nose. cutlapped bottom, etc etc
Aqua - if that was your approach I stand corrected.
Seems like a waste of time and effort though. I would just pore a clean line of resin and wrap the seam with one clean pass.
I only do it that way on colorwork where the customer wants a hard crisp line line with no bleed at all. for the top pic and most other stuff 1 shot.
“I am planning to do a split color resin tint (dipped nose look) on a board I just finished shaping. I am using a UV cure poly resin and was considering splitting the laminating coat into 2 phases. 1st phase I would glass one end, like the teal tint in the attached photo. Then cure it or at least let it kick a little bit in the sun. Then pull it back inside and laminate the nose end (white opaque in the photo) and then set the whole board back out to fully cure. My intent is to have a good separation between pigments. I am OK with minimal bleed, but want it to look like the attached photo more or less. Does anyone see an issue with splitting the curing up like this? Strength or bonding issues? Or some good advice on how to keep the colors separated with a small amount of bleed?”
Am I missing something here I have thought that using color in UV poly needs MEKP.
I’m not sure on the requirements for MEKP in UV cure poly. I do believe you need some with an opaque pigment. I was planing on putting like .25% in both the tinted resin and the opaque resin, hoping to get a long working time with the option to sun cure, but if color prevents a complete cure, the MEK will cure over a few days.
Maybe someone can confirm or dispute that…
I’m thinking your good with the.25% "it’ll cure up and you can “hurry it” in El Sol (quick) I’ve had em get hot just stepping outside!
I fiqured out a way to clean up the blurred transition. Laminate all your colors at once glass as normal (never put cuts in the side laps!). Once cured, you can thicken a small amount of resin with cabosil and add tint… Then take a small foam roller from the dollar store and roll the thickened color along the transition, covering the blurred area. That will give you a really clean line between the colors. Then hot coat as normal.
This was my first one. Epoxy with blue pigment and CLEAR nose area. I chose to cut the cloth at the rail so I could focus on laminating/tucking the blue as clean as possible first. You may want to try clear for your second color, because this way you can overlap the dark color without any impact. This also insures you get ample saturation along the color/clear border.
