Hello all,
I am about the put the hotcoat on board #3. I am using RR expoy with fast hardener. I used acrylic paint to pigment the board so far, but it came out spotty and the color is not even with lots of white spots, etc. Can i spray the board with acrylic paint and clear hotcoat over it? Or can I add a lot of pigment to the hotcoat?
Thanks
You say you used acrylic paint to pigment the board. Do you mean you sprayed paint on the foam? Or did you put paint in the epoxy? Paint in the epoxy is probably not good. There are special pigments for that.
As far as what to do now…Pigment in the hotcoat may not cover all the uneveness from before. Spraying water-based acrylic paint on the hotcoat will cover better, and you can gloss over it. I’m not sure about spraying clearcoat on epoxy. It may work, but I’ve only done it on polyester resin. Works fine that way.
Doug
Acrylic doesn’t bond to epoxy all that well from what I know of it. Urethane chemically bonds to epoxy from what I have read. From what I have tried of it I wouldn’t disagree. But urethane can also be very dangerous. So make of that what you will.
Howzit deanbo,What about laquer.Aloha,Kokua
Yo dcarol,
The simplest way to solve you the cosmetics on you board is to sand it very carefully with 120. Get it perfect! Do a little basting if you have to so when you shoot the hotcoat you don’t have to worry about sand through problem. Now mix a resin swirl in your hot coat and go for it. The swirl will mask the spots and if you go with some white and get the swirl fairly opaque in 50% of the board you’ll get a nice effect. When you do you final sanding start with 150 and be real careful. Take it to 400 or 600 put a coat of dolphin skin or mop and glow on it and it’ll look grand. You can even polish it out if you want a glass finish.
No Worries, Rich
Don’t know the first thing about lacquer. You may want to direct that question at Herb Spitzer.
Get a quality marine or automotive polyurethane paint, and clear coat with the same over it. Or you can forgo the clear coat and lam a layer of 4oz clear over it followed by a poly glosscoat; if weight isn’t a consideration. The advantage of the second method is that the paint won’t be chipping off and scratched easily like surftechs do. If you decide to use the second method, the epoxy hotcoat must be sanded no smoother than 80 grit for the poly to adhere. Unless you’re doing some fancy artwork, it would have been easier to color the lam with real pigment (not acrylic paint) or paint the blank.
You can add pigment to the hotcoat… and do a swirl type technique. We’ve done lots of boards like this and it gives a really interesting effect, particularly over a tinted lam. We mixed the colors into the bucket, gave it a sir or two, poured it out in long nose-to-tail ribbons, then brushed it out nose to tail. You end up with a streaky, wavy, water-like pattern of colors, and it hides all the imperfections underneath. You can even paint some designs over the top of that for some crazy 3-D type depth…
Make an “art board” out of it.