On my first board I did not get good lap wrapping in the corners of the square tail. I decided I needed to grind them down and redo them (this was all before hotcoating). I decided to put little half dollar size patches right over the corners and then a larger patch over the end of the tail. To keep the little pieces in place while laminating then on I used a little 3m spray adhesive to on the dry glass, then placed the pieces in place, which meant wrapping the srface with half the material on the deck and half on the bottom.
So now the question… is there any reason why the spary adhesive is bad?
I was using a clark blank with RR epoxy. The patch seemed to work great. The board has been in use since Sept (SA 04) and the tail patch looks clean and is strong.
If no one sees any problems with this approach I am think that I’d just make it part of my standard approach (not the grinding down part). Would enable 2 extra layers of glass in the tail corners without complicating the folding of the laps.
You could have just dabbed some resin on the board first.It would hold the patch until you got it wetout or… wet out the patch before placing it.I generally use a round artist brush for things like this.You are probably OK with the contact glue but it may turn brown.I would avoid it in the future. RB
Hi - I’ve use this spray before, but not for surfboards, if its what i think it is it stays tacky, so this allows you to cut the glass and rearange it before glassing so you get a better lap line than free lapping, and is easier than cutlaps, also it is designed not to disolve foam.
nice idea, but I would still be worried about the chem compatability.
You’ve had the board a while so sounds ok, but that was and EP job right . I’d still stick to using resin though coz it’s tried and tested. but I’m intregue to know if this stuff would really work coz it could make live a lot easier, just don’t like taking short cuts unless I’m 100% sure on the results.
I tried an experiment with spray adhesive, and it went bad. I wanted to incorporate gold leaf into a board, so I sprayed adhesive, layed down the gold leaf, and laminated. After about three weeks, the adhesive let go, and created a big delam. Luckily it was on an extra piece of foam. (It’s always good to test on something you can throw away)
Your situation is different since you are using a porous cloth, but I would be concerned with unknown factors involving the chemicals and longevity of the adhesive bond. Why not use lightly brushed-on resin as stated before? Doug
Nowadays with extra-quick UV cure, there’s little or no reason not to put these patches on after you laminate. What’s it gonna take, 10 minutes? But that’s poly resin, you’re using epoxy.
Usually, though, I just cut some bits of cloth, and wet 'em with a brush as I got coat. Good insurance and handy to repair where the lap didn’t quite cover everything, such as corners, or where you want a little more, or at darts you’ve cut to glass around curves tighter than the cloth will bend to.
I was just wondering if anyone had anymore recent input on this topic. We use the 3m spray adhesive when laying up model airplane wings on blue foam, and it makes it a lot easier. The problem I could see is discoloration down the road, we are using west epoxy for the wings though which discolors anyway so can’t really test it that way. Anyone use this technique on boards?
I just used it. Too soon to tell if it will discolor later on. 2lb. EPS spackle coated (the creeping evil) and then spray painted white with Krylon H2O.
fiberglass supplers and boat stores sell fiberglass tape already with glue on it ive seen it in 2" 4" and 6"…some boat yards sell it by the foot instead of throwing down for a full roll…and may be the glue they use may be a little more compatable with the glass and resins other than spray adhesive
just dug up this thread as im wanting to pre fix some carbon ribbon to a stringerless board (below) and was thinking of tacking it in position as i crudely sprayed on photoshop on the image below.
Im thinking of spraying some Ados F2 adhesive lightly on the back of the pictured ribbon and then tacking it in place before glassing, as the tape I will probably use is black and blue im not too worried bout the possibility of a little yellowing, im just wondering if it wont interfere with the polyester glass job later?
Any one from above have any results to their trials or does anyone know of another way to tack the ribbon in place?
I’ve used a light misting of 3M Super 77 to hold patches in place on PU quite a number of times. Comes in handy for keeping patches hanging over the edge from falling off before you apply resin. Never had any issues with it.
Cheers for that Dean, yeah forgot to mention it is a poly blank, also did deck channels on the rails to help stiffen it up, was thinking a light mist just to hold it till the glass goes on over…
I’ve used spray glue for just about everything. It’s fine if it’s just used to hold something in place until the real glue is used. You just can’t depend on as the primary fixative. I’ve done stuff like carbon inlays where I spray glued the carbon down and then trimmed and after that laminated. Worked great. I’ve also suggested using it to apply the fiberglass backer to veneers. That way you can cut the veneer to your outline and then the veneer is wet and placed all in one step. 3M Super 77 won’t melt EPS provided you keep the spray head at least 18 inches from the foam while spraying. The solvents will dissipate from the spray in the time it takes for it to travel the 18 inches. All in all great stuff.