Looking for some help with spraying painting a stencil I made on my new board. I’ve been reading the forums but I can’t seem to come up with exactly what I’ve been looking for…
I just finished the hotcoat on my first board. It’s poly, and I did have to sand through to the laminate in a few small places but overall it’s come out pretty well. I’d like to spray a pretty big stencil that I made on the bottom with a few colors and then put a finish coat of resin over the whole board. I’ve tested a few different paints (Krylon for Plastics, Montana Gold Acrylic Spray that I got from Blick, and regular acrylic from a bottle) but non seem to avoid bleeding or running under the finish coat. I’ve been testing them on a broken board so as not to ruin the one I’m making. I was hoping the Monatana spray acrylic would do the trick but I sprayed a small square on the test board, waited a few days, then poured a little UV resin and worked it around to see if it would dissolve and the paint seemed to lift and smear after a few minutes. Is this normal and the way to get around it is just not to work the final coat too much (like almost not at all?) or should I just assume that the Montana Gold isn’t going to work and try to find something else? Is there a clear coat or something I should spray on top to protect it from the final gloss coat? I found a HVLP paint spray system on Harbor Freight that was pretty cheap and got some good reviews that I was thinking about picking up and using regular acrylic with, but I wasn’t sure that was necessary. My other thought was to put the gloss coat on, then paint over that and seal it with an acrylic sealer, but I was hoping to avoid that. I also found these rechargeable spray cans that I thought might work. Any help would be much appreciated. Much thanks in advance…
do you have to have the finish coat of resin on top of the paint? you could paint w/ montana [good paint for the job], spray a clear coat of acrylic, lighty sand w/ red scotchbright and finish w/ dolphin skin or regular acrylic sealer. i doubt you’ll have success doing it under a coat of resin.
I was planning on doing a resin finish coat since there were a few small spots along the lap that I sanded down to (or at least close to) the glass. I suppose that an acrylic sealer would for preventing any water getting into the glass, but I was just thinking it would be better to use resin to really seal it up. I could also put another coat of resin, then paint, then cover with clear acrylic, then dolphin skin… but I was hoping to avoid so many extra steps / weight if it wasn’t really necessary.
Howzit Huck, I have used Posca's,Zig Pens and India Ink and in my book India Ink is by far the best way to go and which ever he uses he just needs to make sure it is totally dry before going to the next step. If you Google india ink you will find there are many colors available. Aloha,Kokua
I've heard that the acrylic pens work well, and I've thought about using them but I was hoping to use a spray acrylic since I already have the stencils for the board all set to go. With the Montana paint, I waited 4 days after spraying it on the tester and it's been pretty warm and dry here so I would assume the paint was as dry as it's going to get.
When you coat over the pens, do you have to be really careful not to work the paint around too much? Just wondering if I just rubbed the resin around over my test patch too much and if I did it on the board with light strokes of a paint brush it'd be ok.
When you do a hotcoat or gloss over paint there is a % of soak in of resin into the paint. There are a few things you need to be careful of:
1) quality of paint and paint compatibility of resin
2) thickness of paint on board. (too much paint and resin will end up like a rubber coating..and peel off)
3) adhesion of paint on board surface. (it need something to grip too)
4) time resin stays in a liquid foarm..ie, kick time. The longer the kick time the more the resin will eat into your paint. Yes it will eat into oil based and acrylic alike...just varing degrees of eat. That's why when you touched it it wiped away. Kick your resin faster, and have less soak time. Plus paint and resin combos will vary your kick time ratios. A painted surface with resin over it will slow down your kick time a lot.
5) The amount of working the resin over paint will brush away your work. Don't over work the resin on the paint. Do the hot coat and walk away...just walk away. If you get fish eyes or other spots...they are there to stay...just walk away. if you come back and brush it after it's been hotcoated and the resin has had a chance to eat into the paint for lets say 10 minutes.. the paint you will smear it.......so just hotcoat and walk away.
6) the thickness of the hotcoat. Too thin and you get a slow kick time or potentially a never kick spot. Too thick the hotcoat slabs off the rails and drags all the paint with it...leaving crack rail fissures that looks like a bad "B" movie brain
Thanks everyone for all the feedback. To billywillgo: I chose not to paint the blank because it is my understanding that it weakens the bond between your lam and the blank since the paint creates a layer between the resin and the foam. Maybe this isn’t the case and I’m sure plenty of people have had great results, but I was just as willing to avoid any potential problems since that’s the most important bond.
I tried another test and it seemed to work a bit better the second time around with a few adjustments to my technique. I painted the board yesterday with the Montana acrylic spray that I got and am waiting for it to dry before I hot coat again. Hopefully it all works out. I’ll be sure to post the results…
