It’s a lazy rainy day in San Francisco today so I thought I would share what I have been working on.
I broke my 8’4" Dick Brewer on a stormy day at R down south. I paddled back out on my friends 7’ and he took some pictures.
When I got some time I dugout some blanks and made some notes on the rocker I was looking for.
Stretch had a nice board around 8’6 that looked fun plus I have an older 70’s single fin that was a favorite. I am trying to do a blend of the two.
I went with an old 9’2" SurfBlanks Australia Red blank that I got from Matt Ambrose. Super hard foam with good rocker once I cut it down to 8’6".
Most of my old boards from the pre Swaylocks era 1990s ect had loud paint jobs. After Sways I got into wood compsands and resin swirls ect. On this one I’m going old school paint done with thinned out acrylic and a foam brush. Found some natural colors to inspire on a surf trip North of Bodega.
After talking to Kieth, Resin Head, ChrisP, Tyler, John, and Benny1 about breaking way to many midsize boards I decided to order some S glass and Vector Net for looks. I glasses the bottom side last week and went for free laps because I’m going to put exposed cork on the deck any way. The Vector Net works better when you don’t try to lap it around the rail for hand glassing.
Now I’m waiting for better weather to glass the deck.
Fun!
Ian - bummed that your brewer snapped. - I know it worked well for you, at least what I saw of you on it.
I dig the wider tail.
If your up for posting it - your process for the cork deck. Your full cork board looked great.
i like the rainbow paint job!
The board is awesome, I love it, love the size, love the shape!
I would never paddle out on a day like that - crazy!!
I like Stretch boards, and I think he really knows what he’s doing as a shaper.
Regarding the broken boards - have you tried going triple stringer?
Great thread, thanks for posting!
Huck - I surfed with Ian at the swaylocks camp out. - it was much bigger than the wave pictured. He had the stones to paddle out and show the rest of us how to get out. -
I was not going to paddle out. BUT Ian made it look too easy. He paddled out, dry hair - caught a bomb and rode it some 200yrds or so making section after section and hopped off in a sandy cove. - I saw it and went out with him, could t get a wave, got sucked over the falls and then took 3 bombs on the head. - my day was over.
Only time I’ve surfed with Ian ( he was on the broken board pictured) - he’s a humble guy - he made me fell like I could do it too haha. Maybe next year.
Thanks for the kind words guys.
All of my mini guns break every season, just a fact up here. The Brewer was a great board.
I had a blast at the Big Sur camp out. As always you should of been there yesterday-Thursday!
I will post as I go.
Ian
I like it Ian!
Another rainy day update. Got some S glass In the mail. I’m sold on how much more substantial it is. Makes Warp- E glass feel like wet toilet paper. Laminated with 2020 RR and filled with Quick Kick.
My first small drama was when I routed my fin boxes with the wrong bit- let my friend borrow my router an failed to notice that the bit had been changed to a non fusion bit. Add 1/8 cork around the hole and all is well with an extra HD cushion…
Ian
that is awesome. especially how you did the fin install. thanks for posting it up here!
Love this build.
What a different breed Bay-area surfers are. Where I live a step-up is like 6’4".
I got a little bit done this weekend and some fins in the mail. True Ames 6-4 quad & purple Lost fins. First I sanded the bottom, then touch up resin batch, and sanded again ect.
I made a G10 leash loop and stuck it on the deck.
Today I started to prep my cork deck. First I made a new 4yrd vacuum bag. Then I rolled out some cork and 2oz glass. The glass is just for holding the resin so it doesn’t soak in as much and you can use less epoxy. On my last board I used contact cement to put the cork deck on and it worked fine with no vacuum bagging. After all the prep I checked the surf and got a little distracted + some barrels.
Are you putting the 2oz cloth over or under the cork .
#1 sick ass build…
Bravo!
2oz under the cork- exposed cork for traction on the deck. Wax is dirty and gross…!
The cork does bleach out a little lighter after a few years but it still works fine.
Yes I agree I have added cork to the decks of several boards for buddies they love it and if it gets dirty you can sand it clean with 100 grit , it gives great grip , adds dent resistance , only adds a little weight but maybe enuf to put some folks off in their quest for the lightest board .
Just curious, is there a particular reason why this time you’re adhering the cork with epoxy & glass versus contact cement?
Epoxy is glue and a better glue than contact cement , it is epoxy to epoxy to cork , I dont use an additional layer of cloth I just use the epoxy the same way as you would use contact cement the cork will never lift off .