I have been surfing about 20 years now and I am having a dilema am I hoping to get some feedback on. El Nino has been hitting pretty hard here in Southern California and after a few weeks in Hawaii I have come to realize that I am severly undergunned right now on my 6-8’.
About a decade ago I owned a 7-6 Pintail Gun that I used for awhile and while it was nice to get in earlier and have the stabilty I certainly wasn’t whipping it around like my 6-2’. Also when I got into critical sections in heavy waves I had this extra foot of board that didn’t really flow like I wanted i felt like it was kind of in the way. I don’t get that feeling when I am on my longboards but it usually smaller waves.
So I ride a lot of boards and was wondering if anyone has used their (please pardon this word as I know it will make most people cringe) funboard as a something that doubles as a bigger wave board? I am thinking the combonation of the rounder nose, more length, round pin and moderate rocker might work nicely in big and small conditions ? I have a very experienced shaper and he will steer me right but just wondering about others experience with choosing a bigger wave board.
I have been wondering about this a bit myself. I am not sure how heavy your are talking about, but surfing on Oahu, I have met alot of guys riding 8 footers, and killing it in 4-6ft HWN. I mean older guys that could still probably surf circles around me on a shortboard but like that type of board.
I was out on a smaller day a couple weeks ago, and met a guy that was surfing at one of my favorite breaks, that is more of short-shortboard break with an 8 footer. I talked with him about it, and it was a pretty cool board. It was done by George Ku, and he had it setup in a quad. I had a look at the rear boxes and they were at least over 1.5-2" from the rail. Seemed like it was almost more of a McKee placement. He said he pretty much used it for everything, and up to about 6ft. Looking at Ku’s stuff might be a start, especially if you are still on island.
I am no longer on Maui but I checked out Ku’s website and yes I will take some of those ideas in to show my shaper. Personally, I just can’t justify a big old pintail gun that only gets ridden a few times a decade it’s not that I am oppossed to a garage filled with surfboards its mainly cause i don’t ride it well and I want to have fun when it gets bigger.
I have kind of accepted that I wasted a lot of time riding the wrong boards for about 10 years and I am trying not to let my percpetion of what a bigger wave board “should look like” guide my decision this time. Also I would like to clarify that I will be tapping out at anything bigger than 10 ft hawain. I got to see Jaws working three times last week and when it comes to that stuff I am a better spectator.
Here’s a large midlength I like in larger than my usual surf (I’m not a big wave charger, typical at my regular spot is 4’), its 8’ long, plenty of rocker, thick enough to paddle easy and get in early. An easy to ride board. Quad.
Yes, definitely, very fun in 4’ waves. I surf typically crowded l.a. County, and I’m an older guy, so good paddler is a must for me, but don’t always want to ride a longboard.
During the ‘‘short board revolution’’ I explored board lengths ranging from 8’ 10’’ (defined as a mini board then) down to 6’ 3’‘, as my personal boards. Even before that, in 1959, I borrowed Al Nelson’s 5 foot long ‘‘Mini Simmons’’ twin fin. At my then weight of 165 pounds, I settled on a board length of 7’ 10’’ as the go to size for my taste in waves, and skill level. Paddling, turning, and speed, were all present at the level I required. I could, and did, ride the same board at La Jolla shores, and the next day ride big Sunset Beach. Not a brag, just plain fact. Though I surf little now, I’m back on a 7’ 10’’ x 22’’ OBQ, after playing with some HP Longboards, for few years. For me, boards in that mid length range are the most versitle.
A fun gun is my single favorite and most versatile board for real waves, essentially just a wider step-up with more curve and lower rocker. At 6’2 x 185#, my usual dims are 7’10 x 13 1/2N x 21 1/2 x 14T x 3, usually a RP or soft DT, low foiled rails, low continous rocker, light single to double, 5 fin set-up opened up and pushed forward a tad to ‘widen’ the turning sweet spot. Super versatile in kine juice from HH to DOH. Mostly ride it thruster, go quad when it’s really walled up and hollow. Pretty much a one board winter quiver. If I’m hitting the road during the winter, often the only board I take.
How about an egg. check out devon howard ripping some solid waves on a 7’2 tyler hairpin. There is also takayama model called the Howard Mini Special that seems like a pretty versitile board in all waves. there is an 8 foot version of that board.
Step up or step down , there are a lot of guys making very good long boards and they have been doing so for many years , the same goes for shortboards , I have been told that a shortboard is 6, 11 or less and a longboard is a min 8, 00 or three feet over your head , I am interested in making boards in between from 7, 0 to about 8, 6 , for guys that dont want to ride a longboard but cant ride a shortboard , I make short longboards and big shortboards and big , or so I am told not really fish . they all qualify as funboards if your having fun and if you are on a board that not having fun on , step up or step down . I agree with melikefish there are a lot of guys riding bigger boards or bigger shortboards in HI , I suspect it is in part due to the surf conditions although you do not need a wetsuit and you can surf all year round without one , conditions are not always ideal we get a lot of wind that chops up the surface , that plus a lot of the breaks are a long paddle , a bigger board helps to have fun .
Here is my step up. “Feeling up the rails is like feeling up a 25 year old,” according to a buddy. Tho neither of us has felt up a 25 year old in a long time… Mike
Hey Rooster, i’m 25 yrs old but somewhow I dont htink im what your buddy had in mind lol. Just messin. That board is sicckkk. Im also looking to build a versitile mid-lenth that can handle some New England juice any tips?
Yah, that’s not what he was thinking, pretty sure. I keep the board away from him now. That board was built by Bill Thrailkill. Contact Bill for tips. Mike
Surfer o and aqua vela - are you guys checking out the board archives, especially the 7 foot category? If not you’re missing the boat, so much good stuff there to get the creative juices going.
This was actually my first day and post here and I am very stoked on all the good insight. I will check the archives out for sure. This realm of boards is one that I have little to no experience with and I am glad to see how many people are also digging it. I also have a pretty eclectic little colllection starting and I will share some pictures of my boards as well.
The board, the view and the dog all make me jealous!
So pardon my ignorance as I can see how it would kill it in some big stuff, but does that move well in small waves? I am guessing lock in a rail and go like hell?
