Still paying the price for stupidity

Overall it was a great day on Saturday.  I surfed all morning up in Carlsbad, came home, had lunch, and went back out in the afternoon in La Jolla.  BTW I was surfing my newly completed 10' x 22.5" x 3" solid balsa retro gun.  It was great.  I took a few good wipeouts in the morning, as I got used to it, but I had it mastered by the afternoon when the biggest waves came through.

The board exceeded my wildest expectations.  It was a totally different feeling surfing this board.  It's hard to explain, but it was really fun.  I don't know if it was the momentum of board (almost 40 lbs), or the curves of the board (templates drawn for me by Bill Thrailkill).  This was my third wooden board, so I know it was not just the novelty of that.  Anyhow, I can't wait to ride it again.

The stupid part came when I realized that I had locked my keys in the car.  I ended up carrying that big old board about a mile back to my house.  My shoulders were killing me the whole way.  A while back I remember seeing an old image of some guys lugging their redwood logs up and down the hill on the trail down to the Palos Verdes Cove.  At the time I thought that they had such a lot of work to do to get their boards down to the water.  Now I think I know how that must have felt.

Note that I didn't injure myself.  I'm just really stiff, and sore.  I guess I needed this experience to get ready for Plaskett Creek.  It looks like we may get a little bit of longer period swell out of the 305 direction starting late Friday.  I can’t wait!

" I ended up carrying that big old board about a mile back to my house."   This mistake would have been 30 miles for me. At least ten to the nearest dwelling. Must be a killer house location. I’m up for adoption BTW. 


Yeah.  We took advantage of the drop in rent prices since the great recession began.  We found a sweet house that we would never have been able to aford a few years ago.  I’m thankfull that I still have a job.  I hope the economy improves, but I’m not looking forward to a return to high rents in this area.  If so, then we may have to move again.  Living close to the ocean is important to me.  I lived in the middle of the country for five years once, and always felt a hollow feeling inside.  Not having a big body of water nearby just felt strange.  Has anyone else felt that way?


hey Swied, i know it's kinda late but, i have a solution for the key thing... i've locked my keys in the car more times than i care to remember. i don't trust the magnetic hide a keys... i picked up a padlock at OSH that locks a key inside. kinda like the ones that realtors use on houses that are for sale but the one i got is smaller. i think the idea is to lock your spare house key up in it. you can set your own combination and when you open it, it can hold a few keys inside. i put my spare key in there and locked it to a hole in the frame of our surfing/camping van. worked for me... i also like those hitch safes but, we don't have a hitch. HTH

    Howzit chris, All my trunks have a loop that you can attach a key to and the loop is sewn so it goes in the wax pocket. But then again I never had to lock my car at Hanalei since everybody knew it and would have stepped in if they saw anyone getting in it. One time I even left the door open and no body bothered it. feel sorry for you guys. Aloha,Kokua

are you teasing me Kokua??? i cant surf in trunks =) i'd last maybe 20 minutes ha ha ha. nah, i do use the key pocket on my wetsuit tho. i'm a big fan of the newer ones that are on the outside of the suit. remember the old ones that were on the inside and on the back??? how dumb was that?... but i feel you regarding not locking your door. why is it when you put more people together, they act stupider... my wife and i are planning/hoping on moving someplace more rural within the next 5 years. i love the Bay Area but i'm kinda over it right now

BTW, we are going to Kauai in November... when we originally made the plans, i was looking forward to dropping in to see you and other sway-bros... guess that will have to happen another time.

If that's the price you paid for stupidity, you got off bargain basement cheap, buddy.  Remind me to tell you about my first wife some time LOL.  Now that's one where my stupidity really cost me!

The walk from Carlsbad would have been about 30 miles......

for a while my friend would leave his keys in the lock in the trunk

I sometimes lock my truck

when the registration and stuff

is out of the glove box and

spread out on the seat.

one time my wife went out

to drive the kids to school and 

who was getting out of the car 

after spending the night

with a cloud of tobacco smoke

following him but an old surfing aquaintence

on the skids…when you come kauai

dont be confused,same planet…

anything can happen

park the wrong place…not good.


it comes down to who’s broke/


nothing better than knowing 

a retired car opener when

you lock your keys ina side…