If you used polyester resing, then eventually it will cure, however note that the air may prevent the skin of the laminating from curing completly, you might have a film of sticky uncured resin on the surface of your board. That is why when you hotcoat you add styrene and wax to your resin. The wax forms a film on the surface, thus stoping the air from interacting with uncured resin. The hotcoat then should cure rock hard.
If however you were using epoxy......then its stuffed.
Yes. Fortunately I was using polyester resin. After about 15 hours up in the atic (slightly cold up there: 50-55F) there is still a sticky coating on some areas whereas in others it’s almost hard. I think I’ll give it a day or two and then wipe the rest off.
BTW, it’s one of those plectrum-shaped paipos like the ones on Lindburg’s page (http://www.paipo.com/products/paipo-xl-plus.html). As it’s not a very large vehicle I thought I could risk doing without any cloth and just use polyester resin… even though it’s a hollow plywood board. I hope it’ll be able to turn too. Can’t wait to try it out. I’ll post some pics of the process when it’s finished.
if you didn’t use wax or styrene, you can smooth on some pieces of wax paper in the sticky spots…get all the air bubles out as best you can and the resin will kick hard. I’ve made this mistake more times than I care to admit.
A second coat mixed a bit hotter will likely bond OK to the first and help it kick completely. If you can, use sanding resin or mix in some surfacing agent (styrene/wax combination) with your laminating resin.
that’s what I felt tempted to do at first but I just wasn’t sure
about it. Luckily it seems to be curing at last (I’ve just been
prodding at it upstairs) so I’ll just wait one more day and then
hotcoat!
Littlefoot.
