Howzit John. I’m not sure the pvc is strong enough for racks but it is cheaper than woode dowels. You could use 2"x2" wood or the dowels. As far as connecting them to the wall probably 4 drywall screws per rack would work and there’s spackle to repair when you move. Do you have an enclosed parking garage, that woud be a good place for the racks.Aloha,kokua
Nix the pvc pipe: it’s too bendy and breakable. No holes in the wall could be a challenge. My recommendation would be two clean 2 x 4’s vertical, floor to ceiling. One screw at the top into the top plate of the wall framing. One screw at the bottom into the bottom plate of the wall framing. Drill holes at an angle into the 2 x 4’s, approx. 12" apart and insert 1 1/4" dowels, glued and tight. The dowels should angle a little up, to keep the boards in place. Cover the dowels with foam plumbing insulation for padding.
Fixing a few small holes before you move out will be easy. That’s what spackle was originally made for, before Eps surfboards were invented. Doug
Well, I have built a few, plain and fancy. From mortise and tenon arms on an upright to simple strapping nailed to 2x4s.
Depends on how good you are with tools and what you have available for tools.
I will tell you that PVC pipe kinda sucks. You have to get up to some size ( 1 1/2 or better, heavy wall ) before you can trust it, and the flanges are frankly worthless.
If you must use the stuff, then you want to get hold of some 4x4s, a strong 1/2" drill and a Forstner bit the same size as the outside diameter of the pipe. Plus some 2x4 and a saw that’ll cut it.
This was an indoor surfboard rack before it retired to the garden. When it was a surfboard rack it didn’t have the lattice, and the vertical 2x4’s had metal flanges with 1/2" pipe thread, 18 long galvanized 1/2" threaded pipe (stock size at the local Depot) covered with pipe insulation. The only PVC was threaded caps on the ends of the pipes. It had a large plastic (cement mixing) tub underneath for fins, booties and gloves. Wetsuits hung on coat hooks on the back of the rack. In hindsight there are a couple of things I’d do differently. It would be easier to transport if the vertical 2x4’s weren’t glued and screwed together. It could have been done with carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts. Attaching oak 1x4’s to the face of the vertical 2x4’s would prevent the metal flange from sinking in, and would allow for long wood screws to secure the flanges.
Thick wood dowels are cheaper than the flange/pipe method, but the dowels require drilling large holes and can’t carry as much weight. It’s also easier to readjust the spacing with the flange/pipe method, like when you sell the quad fin surfboard and replace it with a board with a deep, glassed-on single fin.
I should point out here that my old rack was for a paipo and 4 fun boards no longer than 7’6". To make a rack for John’s 6 longboards the base of the rack should be lower, deeper and heavier. The design will be influenced by the tools available to the builder. It could be as pretty as a piece of furniture or crudely utiilitarian. A single guy might want to make a very manly-looking rack out of wood and a diamond plate toolbox like you’d put in the bed of a pickup truck.