"straight lines..."

Hey all - In my never ending quest to try different mixtures while looking for my magic potion, I’ve come up with a tail idea that has a straight out line from about 6" from tail for about 3’ from a 1’ wide @ 1’, to about 22" wide about a foot behind center.

Just in case you want to know - think it makes a difference, etc.

It’s gonna have 10 fin boxes - just to try a five fin, for lack of easier off the head example, “Griffin style.” along with a “standard” tri, and the “quad” set up I like from my last board. It’s gonna be 7’6" long, serious tail kick, serious nose V thick belly, thin nose and tail.

Mostly I’m just curious to read what ya’ll think about the hydrodynamics of a “straight” out line.

:smiley:


Should work fine.

WHERE you place the pivot points determine how it works in long walls.

Dropping in and wave catching should be normal.

Only on a walled up face, in trim, would you notice any real difference.

And where you place your finboxes and actual size and placement would account for it’s riding characteristics.

A little turbulence might actually be a good thing, making for loose ride.

Only problem for me would be lotsa tail rocker coupled with thin tail.

Thanks Lee - I’ve been stoked with my tail set up for a while, but I want to incorporate some paddling enhancement that I’ve been working on, which doesn’t interfere, I’d argue, but enhances front foot action too.

walled up face, in trim That’s the part I’ve thought a lot about too… how much is the curve in the outline, v. the holding of the rail radius, v. the fins. My feeling, as I write this, is thinking about peoples success with alaias…

Quote:
:D

that thing might work you know…

Hi Taylor -

I used to think that most any outline would work if the rails were foiled to fit the outline… I.E check out a Liddle stubby hull and how the thin rails seem to work with the wide outline. A pointy nose design might do OK with thicker rails.

Then again, I’ve seen some fat rails on wide nose designs that seemed to work OK too.

You’ll figure it out. Just wrap your hand around the rails as you’re shaping and trust your feel.

Thanks for the big dose of the grin meds John… You know, mostly just making sure I haven’t completely overlooked something. I’m pretty stoked… Working on paper this time for fun, and to get a full size visual of what’s doin’ with the ideas in my head… May just work out the foils in real time 3-D, as I’m not sure I want to draw out that much, and it’s the least “new” concepts for me.

Just thought of it this weekend - Got any left over Sway '08 shirts to sell?

Peace - Taylor

Don’t forget, hexagonally shapped rails are looser, bounce off the wave face, and make your board ride like it’s shorter. That would be three flat planes, making for tuck, and vert face, and the 45 degree top slope.

Then Cheyne like pure blade fins, no curve, and you got the whole setup.

Thanks Lee - Gotta say, after reading an interview with Parish a while back about soft fore rails, and thinking about some of my older boards and how well they went off the front foot, I’ve started using 50/50 rails in the front 2/3 to 30/70 to 90 degree angle between the front fins and kick tail (@ 1/4 length from tail).

I was pleased to read Greg Griffin saying soft to sharp rails (I took it to be, he didn’t like it) made the board feel/ride like it was narrower… Ha! That’s what I wanted, and pieced it together based on performance… The “feeling” was an after effect.